Express Yourself: The Color Formulas by Lucie Doughty

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Outrageous hair colors are a current trend dominating mainstream culture. From pastels to rainbow ombrés and stencils, hues are being explored and worn by men and women of every age. They serve as a modern form of self-expression that lets us convey our character. Whether we want to look different, display our personality or create a new sense of identity, hair color can dramatically change anyone’s appearance and attitude.

Lucie Doughty, Editorial Director for Paul Mitchell, takes us on a journey of imagination and artistry in American Salon’s October 2015 cover. Inspired by the concept of identity, Lucie experiments with color palettes and creative techniques on wigs and wefts to explore various patterns and shapes. She also introduces new color formulas to keep you inspired and your guests coming back.

Key Products and Tools Used

  • the color XG®

Unsurpassed Performance. Brilliant Results.

Developed by Europe’s top color experts, this easy-to-use permanent hair color offers the perfect fusion of performance and reliability. With vibrant reds, up to 100% gray coverage and a specially curated collection of 86 beautiful intermixable shades, the color XG® creates the results you want every time.

  • DYESMART® System

Ensures maximum color penetration, greater longevity and brilliant vibrancy in red shades.

  • Pure XG Protection System

A blend of soothing ingredients, including cottonseed oil and rice milk, leaves hair shiny and healthy.

  • Up to 100% Gray Coverage

Opaque color offers incredible coverage, even on resistant gray hair with natural-looking results.

  • 86 Brilliant Shades

A specially curated collection of shades for every color need

Each Look’s Step-By-Step Process

Cover Look: Choreographed Curls

Model: Jess Angeles

Insight

Curly hair isn’t often featured, but when it does, it takes center stage. Lucie used a delicate combination of cool, energetic tones that gracefully dances across the curls.

Strategy

Begin by marrying beautiful chocolate wefts with deep denim blue, blush and peach pieces. Clip them all into the hair.

Formula

  • Peach: the color XG® 1 oz. 10N + pea-size Orange Intensifier + pea-size Red Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Blush: the color XG® 1 oz. 9PN + 1 oz. 9WB + 1 inch 7RO + 3 oz. 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Denim Blue: the color XG® 2 oz. UTV + 1 oz. 9A + 12 g Blue Intensifier + 4.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Chocolate: the color XG® 1 oz. 5G + 1.5 oz. 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer

Look 2: Barcode

Model: Grace Cheng

Insight

Barcodes are patterns used to store unique information to identify a product. Lucie was fascinated by the barcode as a graphic element, boldly asserting that hair color is a way we express our identity.

Strategy

After combing through a few craft stores, Lucie found a custom-made stencil she wanted to use. She printed the barcode graphic directly onto fabric paper and ironed the stencil onto a weft.

Formula

  • Blonde: the color XG® 1 oz. UTPN + 1 oz. 10P + 3 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Black: the color XG® 1 oz. 1N + 1.5 oz. 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer

Look 3: Space Age Silver & Sapphire

Model: Lucy McIntosh

Insight

Whimsical silver and blue are every girl’s dream colors. Lucie took this season’s denim blue hue to pixelated portions that are out of this world. She brilliantly combined a variety of shades and tones that bounce and sway with the hair.

Strategy

Provide an assortment of celestial color creations featuring this season’s must-have rose, blue, mint and beige formulas.

Formula

  • Creamy Beige: the color XG® 1 oz. 8WB + 1 oz. 9PN + 3 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Off-White: the color XG® 1 oz. UTA + 1 oz. UTP + 3 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Mint: the color XG® 1 oz. UTA + 1 inch Green Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Rose: the color XG® 1 oz. UTV + 1inch Red Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Violet: the color XG® 1.5 oz. 10A + 1.5 oz. Clear Booster + 12 g Violet Intensifier + 4.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer

Look 4: Pieces of Me

Model: Jess Angeles

Insight

This abstract look was inspired by an array of colors from pixilated sunglasses. It’s fresh, adventurous and playful, complementing Noogie Thai’s solid-shape cut.

Strategy

Working with pre-lightened wefts, Lucie created different colors that match the pixilated sunglasses. She then chose 10 shades, cut them into small squares, and used decoupage glue to create a single piece of art for the fringe.

Formula

  • Pale Yellow: the color XG® 1 oz. UTN + 2 inches Gold Intensifier + 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Mint: the color XG® 1 oz. UTA + 1 inch Green Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Emerald: the color XG® 1oz. 10A + 1 inch Blue Intensifier + 1 inch Green Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Lavender: the color XG® 1 oz. 10P + 1 dot Violet Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Brown: the color XG® 0.5 oz. 7RB + 0.5 oz. 6G + 1 dot Red Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Pale Blue: the color XG® 1 oz. 10A + 1 dot Blue Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Moss Green: the color XG® 1 oz. 10A + 1 oz. Green Intensifier + 3 oz. 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Khaki: the color XG® 1 oz. 10A + 1 dot Green Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Deep Violet: the color XG® 1 oz. 6V + 1 oz. Clear Booster + 10 g Violet Intensifier + 3 oz. 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Dark Blue: the color XG® 1 oz. 8A + 10 g Blue Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Rose: the color XG® 1 oz. UTV + 1 inch Red Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Tomato Pink: the color XG® 1 oz. 7R + 0.5 oz. Clear Booster + 1 dot Violet Intensifier + 2.25 oz. 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer

Look 5: Green Queen

Model: Grace Cheng

Insight

Inspired by Chanel Couture’s Fall/Winter 2015 runway show, Lucie applied varying shades of green to a classic bob haircut. Just like people, the pigments are multidimensional, layered and complex.

Strategy

Lucie used a variation of green hues—hunter green, sage and lime green—to create a beautiful and interesting medley.

Formula

  • Lime Green: INKWORKS® equal parts Yellow and White + 1 dot Blue
  • Hunter Green: the color XG® 0.5 oz. 8A + 0.5 oz. UTA + 1 inch Green Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Sage: the color XG® 1 oz. UTA + 1 dot Green Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer

Look 6: Looking Rosy

Model: Lucy McIntosh

Insight

Inspired by the underground street style trend, the fringe is a different color from the rest of the hair. Lucie wanted the front weft to look like a tattoo—another form of self-expression.

Strategy

Starting with a radiant red base, Lucie hand painted highlights and lowlights with a red-violet palette for contrast. After printing the rose image on transfer paper, she ironed the graphic on to the fringe weft.

Formula

  • Nude: the color XG® 1 oz. 10N + pea-size amount Red Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Plum: the color XG® 1 oz. 5VR + 1.5 oz. 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Raspberry: the color XG® 2 oz. 7RV +1 inch Violet Intensifier + 3 oz. 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer

Look 7: Peach Perfect

Model: Grace Cheng

Insight

This look is soft and feminine with added pops of colors and patterns. Lucie played off of the pixilation trend with her own interpretation.

Strategy

Lucie used a cool, soft shades of peach and apricot for the base color. After smoothing the hair, she dabbed yellow, blush and peach circles onto wefts and in the fringe. Noogie then created a dynamic haircut shape to accentuate the color technique.

Formula

  • Soft Peach: the color XG® 1 oz. 10WB + 1 dot Orange Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Apricot: the color XG® 1 oz. 9N + 1inch 7R0 + 1 dot Orange Intensifier + 1 dot Red Intensifier + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • Yellow dots: INKWORKS® equal parts Yellow and White
  • Peach dots: INKWORKS® equal parts Yellow, White, and Red
  • Pink dots: INKWORKS® equal parts Hot Pink and White

Look 8: Color With A Twist

Model: Lucy McIntosh

Insight

Today’s fashion loves strong black-and-white patterns with bold graphics. Because fashion is a strong form of self-expression, Lucie weaved fabric into the hair color.

Strategy

After coloring one welf blonde and one welf black, Lucie used them to create a fishtail braid. She then twisted and molded it into the final shape. A white-and-black polka dot headband borders the braid, completing this sculpture-like masterpiece.

Formula

  • Black: the color XG® 1 oz. 1N + 1.5 oz. 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
  • White: the color XG® 1 oz. UTA + 1.5 oz. 10 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer