Girls Will Be Boys

 

Lucie Doughty smudges the line between masculine and feminine for a fabulous effect.

Androgyny, the newest collection from Paul Mitchell Editorial Director Lucie Doughty, pulls no punches, with looks for women who exude strength and confidence. “The inspiration came from fashion, and designers who make tailored suits and pieces that could really cross over into menswear,” says Doughty. “I thought it would be interesting to design hair that felt the same, whether it was a certain finish, a silhouette or the idea of a style that could cross over.” The collection, exclusive to American Salon, was shot in black and white to dramatize the makeup design by Patrick Eichler and give it a more graphic feel, and to underscore the overall effect of neutrality. —Karen Ford

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER LE KING; NAILS: YZSABELLA COATH; ASSISTANT: CHRISTINA ASAI; MOdels: PHOTOGENICS

ABOVE IMAGE: All styling was aided by tools from Straight Pin Studio, the new joint venture between Lucie Doughty and John Paul Mitchell Systems. The new company’s Essentials Kit includes more than 600 hairpins, bobby pins, elastic bands, hairnets and clips as well as four pads in varying shapes. For this look, Doughty cut the wig using a Donald Scott carving comb to create texture, then styled using Paul Mitchell Slick Works and a wide-toothed comb.

After applying Awapuhi Wild Ginger Texturizing Sea Spray, Doughty blow-dried hair with a round brush, set it on Velcro rollers and allowed it to cool. She backcombed a 3-inch-deep section at the nape, then wrapped hair in Straight Pin Studio’s Essentials Kit crescent padding and pinned it into place. Hair above the section was backcombed and laid over the top, section by section. Then it was pinned before being misted with Extra Body Firm Finishing Spray.

IMAGE ABOVE: To create this quirky quiff, Doughty blow-dried hair at the sides and the back toward the middle. She then backcombed the center section before rolling it around the oblong padding from Straight Pin Studio’s Essentials Kit and pinning into place.

Doughty blow-dried the hair using a directional technique, then set it using a large-barrel iron and Hold Me Tight Spray. She braided the center section close to the scalp and pinned padding from Straight Pin Studio’s Essentials Kit to the braid. Doughty then folded hair over the padding and pinned it into place before misting with Awapuhi Wild Ginger Finishing Spray.