Fashion designers preview their resort collections during the summer months, forecasting looks that will land in stores at the end of the year. What I love about the resort shows is, unlike the spring and fall collections, their tone is reliably playful, and so are the makeup looks. Resort show makeup is lighter, brighter and frothier than what we typically expect on runways. To be a leading makeup artist is to be informed on the latest trends. So why not take your cues from the resort shows? Their getaway glamour is so perfect for now. Here are some of my favorite looks and how to replicate them for your clients.
The look Napoleon Perdis created for the Lela Rose show
Coral mania at Lela Rose: I directed the makeup at Lela Rose this season, and it was all about a dewy, coral statement. The star product is my DéVine Goddess Lipstick in Hess. Depending on the client’s skin tone, you can go dramatic or subtle with the color. Use it as a stain by applying to a lip brush and gently tapping onto the lips, or pump it up to a vibrant level. Compliment the look with a coral powder blush on the apples of the cheeks, followed by a wash of peachy-orange color from the lash line to the socket using a soft blending brush. This helps to warm the client’s eyes. Finish with a minimal swipe of brown gel liner on the inner rim of the eyes for definition and a second coat of mascara.
Trés chic at YSL: This woman is ready for a weekend stay at the famous La Mamounia resort in Marrakech. Start with a blank canvas using primer. Even out skin tone by using a matte foundation on the features focus area of the face and blend out. Heighten the eyes with groomed brows, a few coats of black mascara and a smudged application of brown or black eye pencil on the outer corner of the upper and lower lash lines. Then create a subtle contour by sweeping a bronzer in the hollow of the cheek back towards the ear. Choose a plum red lipstick with a lustrous creamy finish like my Lip Patrol in Corporal Drama. One of my perennial tips is to line lips last, which keeps it all neat and tidy. And voilà.
Neon color at Balenciaga: Not for the faint of heart obviously. Your most adventurous clients might appreciate an avant-garde look such as this, with blocks of vivid color on eyes. I happen to love the fuchsia version. When working with heavily pigmented color like my Color Disc in Fuchsia, it’s advisable to map your shape first with a white eyeliner pencil. Using a medium to large flat eye brush, create the outline of your block-like shape with a cream shadow. Restrict the color to the upper eye area extending from the inner and outer corner of the eye socket, taking color just beyond the length of the eye. Fill in the entire shape then press a matching color shadow on top to secure and set. Keep lips and cheeks understated with flesh tones.
Eighties glam at Versace: The strong purple lip and smoky eye combination smacks of the eighties. To recreate this look, start by smoking up the eyes. After applying mascara, work a black gel liner on the lower lash line then blend across the eye lid and into the socket. Also line the inner rim of the eyes. Apply your second coat of mascara. Conceal the lip for a blank canvas and then apply a generous amount of lilac lipstick. Tap along the lengths of lips and repeat the step to build intensity.
In 1995, celebrity makeup artist Napoleon Perdis debuted his line of cosmetics and launched his first concept store and Makeup Academy in Sydney. Today, Napoleon Perdis has 59 stand-alone concept stores and more than 800 point-of-sale locations across Australia and New Zealand. In the U.S., the brand has three Napoleon Perdis stores and is sold in select independent retailers. Celebrity fans of the brand include Jessica Szohr, Lady Gaga, Becki Newton, Debra Messing, Lindsay Lohan, Amanda Bynes, Shenae Grimes, Whitney Port, Adrienne Bailon and more.