Adult acne is on the rise. Currently, 54 percent of women 25 and older are reporting blemishes. The cause? “Chronic stress,” says Beth Bialko, global education developer for Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute. “Continual stress increases hormone levels—which leads to a boost in oil production, inflammation and breakouts.” Here, Bialko details ways to help your adult acne clients.
- Ease embarrassment “Adults with acneic skin have tried everything. They’re emotionally stressed about their appearance, which only makes their skin condition worse,” says Bialko. “And adult acne heals slowly, which adds to their frustration.” Her suggestion: Provide a full skin analysis and educate them on why they might be breaking out. Give them tips on reducing stress. And, recommend ways to minimize the appearance of acne with non-comedogenic mineral makeup and tinted moisturizers.
- Sop up the sebum Controlling excess oil is the key to keeping your client’s skin clear. Bialko recommends applying and suggesting productswith niacinamide, nordihydroguaiaretic acid and azelaic acid. “These ingredients help regulate sebum production without leaving the skin dehydrated.”
- Shed some skin Exfoliation treatments clear follicles, whisk away excessive skin cells and give acneic skin a youthful glow. Bialko’s favorite exfoliating ingredients for adult acne: salicylic acid, and papain and bromelain enzymes.
- Banish bacteria Bacteria sets off a blemish chain reaction. Bialko recommends treating acneic skin with products that inhibit bacteria while also healing the skin. A sulfur mask, such as Dermalogica’s Charcoal Rescue Masque, has both antibacterial and skin-calming properties.
- At-home advice Before your client leaves the salon, Bialko suggests giving them these helpful pointers: Don’t be surprised if you experience some breakouts right after treatment. When the skin detoxifies, there can be an adjustment period. And avoid over cleansing and stripping the skin.