American Salon Staff
1. SUGAR FIX
Archipelago Sugar Hand Wash with white sugar and mango smells good enough to eat but the alpha hydroxyl acid-rich formula also soothes and restores rough, irritated skin. archipelago-usa.com
2. EXOTIC ESCAPE
Infuse your space with the aroma of fresh flowers, vanilla, sandalwood, oak moss, ylang-ylang and lemongrass with the Sands of Morocco Scent Diffuser from Infusion Organique. infusionorganique.com
3. FRESHEN UP
The Malagasy Vanille Home Fragrance Mist from Thymes' Indigenous line is a blend of Madagascar vanilla, sandalwood, cinnamon, amber, bergamot, ylang-ylang and musk. thymes.com
4. TROPICAL HEAT
The new Taj candle, part of Seda France's Paisley Pagota Box Candle collection, is scented with tropical flowers and earthy pineapple leaf. sedafrance.com
5. IN BLOOM
The signature Blossom scent from clothier 88 Orange is meant to evoke the beaches and citrus groves of California's Orange County. 88orange.com
6. SOFT SUDS
The 100 percent natural Claus Porto Banho Citron Verbena Bath Soap with shea butter is milled seven times to prevent cracking and splitting and to preserve the fragrance until the end of the bar. clausporto.com
7. BE GENTLE
The Bubble Roome's sulfate-free Bath & Body Washes, in yummy scents like Ylang Ylang & Cinnamon and Grapefruit & Tangerine, nourish the skin while gently exfoliating it with alpha hydroxy fruit acids and salicylic acid. thebubbleroome.com
8. ALOHA STYLE
With a luscious tropical scent and packaging featuring vintage artwork, Terranova's Island Song Coco-Mango body care line is Hawaii in a bottle. terranovabody.com
Tricks of the Shade
Master colorist and educator David Adams offers 11 steps to growing your salon's color business.
Even though many companies and salons offer educational classes on haircolor, master colorist and co-founder of the education program redChocolate David Adams feels that there are core issues being neglected that could dramatically increase a salon's haircolor business. "I've had many people ask what it takes to have a really good color business," Adams says. "It takes me three hours to explain, but they finally understand." Adams created the redChocolate Haircolour Service Wheel as an easy-to-follow guide of 11 steps he recommends colorists follow to see their color business soar.
David Adams reveals the secrets to a successful haircolor business.
1. Greeting: According to Adams, the greeting entails more than just saying hello to clients. It also involves the employees' appearance, attitude and how they present themselves to clients. "When I worked at Vidal Sassoon, we used to have daily morning inspections to make sure our hair was clean and our shoes were shined," Adams says. "You need to look the part of an expensive service if you want to charge a lot for it. You need to ask yourself if you want to give off the appearance of a four-star restaurant or McDonald's."
2. Consultation: According to Adams, the consultation aspect is important because it requires the colorist to find out who the guest is and what his or her lifestyle is like. "One important question to ask is, 'What is your job?'" Adams says. "The job will determine the color and cut the guest should receive. For example, if a guest needs to tie her hair back while at work, then that indicates the cut and shape she should get." Adams also uses a portfolio containing pictures of food to describe different hair colors. "Clients really don't understand what auburn, brunette and red mean," Adams says. "Instead, use descriptions like dark chocolate, caramel, butter, honey and licorice to help a client relate to the color."
3. Pricing: "Haircutters do not like talking about money," Adams says. He recommends explaining to clients exactly what the service will cost, as well as how much their retouch will cost and how long that service will take before they rebook. "The salon industry is the only industry where guests come in, sit in a styling chair and have no idea what they are paying."
4. Formulation: The formulation of color is very important in making clients happy, and in giving them the look they desire. Adams recommends knowing every single product in the color dispensary and how to formulate the colors to create the ideal shade for application.
5. Application and technique: The salon industry is constantly changing. Receiving ongoing education in new applications and techniques is important to ensure that colorists stay up-to-date on trends.
6. Value-added service: Complimentary hand, neck and shoulder massages are just a few ways salons can offer their clients something extra when they visit. "In today's economy, value-added services are huge," Adams says. "They make the price clients pay worth it to them. The goal is to have clients walk out the door completely happy and feeling like they were treated special."
7. Home care: According to Adams, it is the job of a colorist to recommend products that help clients maintain the vibrancy and color of their hair. Clients will appreciate any advice and recommendations they receive that might prolong their service and give them the most for the money they spend, Adams says. He recommends talking to clients about at-home products while their color is developing.
8. Prebooking: Prebooking is one of the most important aspects of building a color business. "If every guest left with their next appointment already booked, six weeks from that day will be the best week for that colorist," Adams says.
9. Shampoo and after treatment: Knowing how to treat the hair once it's been shampooed impacts the final result, so Adams recommends that colorists assess whether the color needs toning or conditioning and what they can do to make the color last as long as possible.
10. Styling and the finishing touch: Following the shampoo and after treatment, stylists should do the cut, style and blow-out. According to Adams, clients should also receive a complimentary makeup application. "Makeup and haircolor go hand in hand," Adams says. "Makeup is the finishing touch. It is important to remember that clients may be leaving the salon with a completely new hair color, so it is the perfect chance to help them finish their look right with new eye makeup or lipstick."
11. Goodbye: When the guest is finished, escort them to the reception area and talk to them one last time about product recommendations. —NICOLE PALMIERI
Check out the latest in haircolor and color care.
1. Redken Color Gels Ash Blue neutralizes warmth and color corrects with a blue corrective tone. Shades include 5AB Twilight, which provides strong blue tones to control orange undertones on light to dark brown hair; 7AB Moonstone, which provides light blue tones to control orange undertones exposed when lifting light brown to dark blonde hair; and 8AB Stardust, which provides the lightest blue tones to create an icy cool blonde. redken.com 2. The new Matrix SoColor Recrafted features the same trusted results, a color palette of more than 20 shades and the affordability of the previous SoColor, but with added benefits. The new formula offers clients nonstop conditioning, long-lasting color and shine. matrix.com 3. Carmen Ultime by Eugene Perma Paris is an oxidative 1 plus 1 mixing cream haircolor that is enriched with a plant-based complex that helps transport, distribute and sublimate haircolor. It is available in 76 shades and provides 100 percent gray coverage. eugeneperma.com 4. Color Charm Cashmere Collection by Wella is a six-shade line extension of Color Charm Liquid Crème Haircolor that delivers natural warm brunette haircolor results. New shades consist of Light Natural Warm Blonde, Medium Natural Warm Blonde and Dark Natural Warm Blonde, each available in two different levels. colorcharm.com 5. True Integrity Opalescent Colour Crème Ultra Light Blondes by Scruples neutralizes the warm underlying tones that develop during the lifting process. Available in Ultra Light Neutral and Ultra Light Ash, these shades feature a nutrient-rich blend of orange flower, panthenol, vitamin E, sunflower and aloe. scrupleshaircare.com 6. Phyto Subtil is a brand new line of haircolor, available in select territories this fall and everywhere in January 2010, that includes color highlight creams, color boosters, a true blue seven tone lightening paste, a color remover, and color essentials such as shampoos, oxidizing creams and developers. phyto-usa.com 7. Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener reconstructs as it lightens up to eight levels. Featuring the exclusive Quadramine Complex, a dual-charged protein with 19 amino acids, the formula also contains shea butter to leave hair soft and shiny. joico.com 8. Silk Degrees Naturceutical Hair Color Treatment by Pravana Naturceuticals contains botanical extracts and is available in six different colors that can be mixed to create custom shades. pravana.com 9. JOC Anti-Yellow Silver Shampoo helps prevent gray and white hair from yellowing with a combination of pigments, UV filters and rich conditioners. oloffbeauty.com 10. TIGI Colour just added four new shades to its reds and coppers range, including Light Coppery Blonde, True Coppery Blonde, Light Reddish Blonde and Light Reddish Brown. tigiprofessional.com 11. Crème Demi Permanente by Clairol Professional is available in 18 intermixable shades organized into four tonal pillars, including Neutral for natural-tone results, Ash for optimum cool results, Gold for pure golden results and Red for vibrant red results. clairolpro.com 12. Designed specifically for men who want to blend their gray hair, Keune Color Man is a gentle cream gel that comes in six subtle but rich shades, including Black, Dark Brown, Medium Brown, Light Brown, Dark Blonde and Medium Blonde. keune.com 13. Product Club Pop-Up Foil is now available in fuchsia and chartreuse. These 5-inch by 11-inch sheets are precut and a convenient pop-up dispenser releases one sheet at a time. productclub.com —NICOLE PALMIERI
The Guys Have It
Continuing a centuries-old tradition, men have once again found sanctuary in salons that cater only to them.
First introduced in ancient Rome, barbershops were a place that men would gather on a daily basis to socialize and spread news. Continuing into the 20th century, barbershops marked a refuge where men could relax and be men, and where young boys would envy their fathers as they watched them get shaved. Somewhere over the past few decades, however, that tradition was mostly abandoned. Many of today's men did not grow up going to barbershops with their dads; rather, they went to unisex salons with their mothers, and that sense of male community was lost among gossiping women and female-focused services. In recent years, though, there has been a proliferation of modern versions of traditional barbershops that give men a place of their own to once again gather and be pampered. This selection of male-focused salons across the country provides good examples of how to cater exclusively to men or to better service male clientele at unisex salons.
Mister 312, Chicago
When it opened in Chicago's Loop area this summer, Mister 312 became one of the only L'Oréal Professionnel Homme Centers in the United States. The sophisticated style of the salon features stark white walls, plenty of flat-screen televisions (some built right into the mirrors at the styling stations) and barber chairs designed by Porsche.
When it comes to services, the salon looked to the city of Chicago itself for inspiration. The most popular package is the Michigan Avenue, which includes a wash, hot towel, scalp massage, cut and style and shoe shine. Other popular options are The Rush Street, simply a wash and cut; The Upper and Lower Wacker waxing services; and the Soldier Field basic pedicure.
Clandestine Iindustries, Chicago
While the whole salon is designed for luxury, Mister 312 offers an added dose of exclusivity in its executive suites, private areas that come with a personal concierge to provide everything from general information and directions to restaurant reservations and flower orders.
BLACK TIE SPA AND BARBERSHOP
Black Tie Spa and Barbershop in the Boston suburb of Norwell, MA, brings men back to the days of the old-time barbershop. As soon as men walk in, they know they're in a warm and inviting place just for them. Black Tie's waiting area consists of a wood-paneled library, fireplace and large plasma TV tuned to the latest sports game, and the styling stations have genuine leather barber chairs amongst a backdrop of rich mahogany and marble.
Along with classic cutting, styling and shaving services, Black Tie has a state-of-the-art spa with a menu featuring a variety of targeted facials and massages, body treatments, manicures and pedicures, microdermabrasion and waxing, plus a steam room for total relaxation.
Martial Vivot Ssalon Ppour Hhommes, Nnew York City
A modern-day rock 'n' roll barbershop, Clandestine Industries has become Chicago's male-centric hot spot for hip haircuts and cutting-edge color. The salon opened in 2007 as an addition to the Clandestine Industries clothing store founded three years earlier by Fall Out Boy front man Pete Wentz. "We wanted to be a lifestyle brand rather than a retail space," says Rebecca Cairns, general manager for the store and salon.
The salon's only stylist and colorist, Brandon Rok, specializes in edgy cuts like the Mohawk and Wentz's signature "emo look." "Brandon has found a way to cut hair so that men can have a corporate look at work, but can be edgy once they leave the office," Cairns says. "Men shouldn't have to give up either role." While clientele leans slightly more male than female, the salon also offers Lady Cuts in addition to its Dude Cuts.
The salon is best known for its makeup application, which includes Rockstar Eyes, a heavy application of black eyeliner on men, a look made famous by Wentz that led to the term "guyliner."
EMERGE MEN'S CLUB
Set on its own floor of Emerge Spa and Salon on Boston's fashionable Newbury Street, Emerge Men's Club is a private day spa with an unabashedly masculine environment. Mahogany walls, large treatment rooms, and private shower and locker facilities set the scene for the ultimate indulgence for men, while a well-appointed lounge with a flat-screen TV and Internet access ensure comfort and relaxation.
The spa menu has everything from hair and scalp services and shave options to sports pedicures and aromatherapy skin treatments. One signature treatment is the Gentlemen's Kur, which consists of a brisk salt and eucalyptus oil exfoliation followed by a eucalyptus herbal bath and relaxing massage to leave the body completely revitalized.
HE'S NOT HERE BARBERSPA FOR MEN
Myrtle Beach, SC
Opened in 2004 by Gordon and Patty Hirsch, He's Not Here BarberSpa for Men is Myrtle Beach, SC's first and only spa and salon designed specifically for men. The 2,000-square-foot space includes four barber stations, three massage rooms, a private manicure and pedicure room, a Vichy shower treatment room and a locker room. The decor is traditional, with touches of mahogany, leather and polished stone. "He's Not Here is a unique blending of yesterday's corner barbershop with today's finest massage and spa services," Gordon says. "We're an uncommon hideaway devoted to making a man look and feel his very best—a fun, refreshing place where men gather in comfort to enjoy the restorative benefits of caring for themselves in style."
While He's Not Here has a loyal local following, they also attract many out-of-towners who are in Myrtle Beach for the area's renowned golf courses. To that end, they offer services like the Zone Massage, a targeted deep-tissue massage for aching shoulders, lower back and other muscles strained while hitting the links, and the Back Facial, which aims to correct damage done by sweating on the greens.
He's Not Here's retail area features products from Paul Mitchell, American Crew and Truefitt & Hill.
MARTIAL VIVOT SALON POUR HOMMES
New York City
When he opened Martial Vivot Salon Pour Hommes in July 2008, celebrated men's stylist Martial Vivot—a '90s pioneer of what would eventually become known as the metrosexual approach to men's grooming— wanted to provide male clients with the same world-class stylists and caliber of service that women enjoy at Manhattan's luxury unisex salons. His high-end salon uses natural elements of metal, wood and steel to create an oasis of masculine sophistication for modern, style-savvy, successful men.
Along with cutting and coloring services by some of the city's top male grooming experts, the salon offers face and head shaves, beard trims, brow tweezing, pampering manicures and pedicures and shoe shines. Martial Vivot also offers comprehensive wellness and style services by former Chanel ready-to-wear executive Elisa Niemtzow, so that every aspect of a male's image and well-being is addressed.
New York City and Chicago
A leader in the men's grooming industry, John Allan opened his first eponymous men's club in New York City in 1988, believing that educating men to look their best would elevate their game in every aspect of their lives. He now has four salons in Manhattan—and recently opened a club in Chicago—which cater to both members and walk-in clients. He has also started a training clinic where stylists and salon owners from around the country can learn his approach to men's grooming.
Each John Allan's location offers his signature Full Service package, which includes a scalp massaging shampoo, conditioning treatment, hot towel, haircut, manicure and shoe shine, plus color services, beard trims, facials, massage and pedicures. Members can pay an annual fee for unlimited Full Service visits (plus some other benefits), and many companies offer corporate memberships to their employees. The clubs have a host of guy-friendly amenities like pool tables, flat-screen televisions and bars.
AL'S BARBER SHOP
Denver and Boulder, CO
Al Urbanowski, owner of Al's Barber Shop, with locations in Denver and Boulder, CO, says that men want an environment that speaks to them directly and allows them to feel comfortable. That's exactly what he's created in his modern barbershops that focus completely on men's haircutting. The relaxed yet upscale interiors feature hard wood floors, brick walls, black countertops, stainless steel accents, open ceilings with wooden beams and masculine imagery. Each styling station features both a traditional barber chair and a sink, so that the client can be washed and cut in the same place without having to move around the shop, allowing him to focus on relaxing and enjoying the experience.
Main services include haircuts, face shaves and beard trims, while $5 hairline clean-ups give clients an inexpensive reason to come into the salon on a consistent basis. Urbanowski, an American Crew educator, uses the company's haircare, styling and shave products in the salons and sells them exclusively in his retail area. —LORI MORRIS
New Guys In Town
Check out these new products and product lines created specifically for men and their particular hair needs.
John Allan's Tough Fortifying Styling Paste is specifically formulated to add flexible, flake-free muscle and control to even the most fine or difficult textures. (johnallans.com)
Keune Care Line Man Combat Shampoo, which defies dandruff with salai and zinc pyritione, is part of the brand's new men's collection. (keune.com)
Conditioning Shampoo from new men's line Towel Dry makes thick hair soft and manageable, while also providing dandruff control. (toweldrymen.com )
Redken For Men High Rise hard wax gives maximum hold to create long-lasting, gravity-defying styles with a natural, humidity-resistant finish. (redken.com)
It's essential to guide men toward the proper haircare and styling products to help them maintain their look at home. Keep your male clients happy—and boost retail sales—by stocking a selection of guy-friendly products on your shelves.
Aal's Barber Sshop, Boulder, CO
1) Matrix Men Switch Up Gel-Wax functions as a gel on wet hair and as a wax on dry hair (matrix.com); 2) J Beverly Hills Men Moisturizing Shampoo gives balance to the hair and scalp (jbeverlyhills.com); 3) P2 Roots Shampoo from Philip Pelusi stimulates the scalp and combats dryness while removing oils and product build-up (philippelusi.com); 4) Bed Head for Men Leave-In Conditioner has Brazilian rainforest extracts to add moisture and reduce scalp dryness (tigihaircare.com); 5) American Crew Classic Daily Shampoo gently cleanses with Panama bark extract, wheat protein, rosemary and thyme (americancrew.com); 6) GO24.7 Styling Cream provides light hold as it thickens and defines (go247men.com); 7) Aveda Men Pure-formance Firm Hold Gel is formulated with certified-organic honey that delivers maximum hold, control, definition and shine without unwanted buildup (aveda.com); 8) Goldwell Supervisor Clay Modeling Paste is a texture paste for creating unstyled looks (goldwellusa.com).