American Salon Staff
1. MOOD LIGHTING
The Soap & Paper Factory's pure beeswax candles burn for 60 hours and come in delicate fragrances like Orange Blossom, Fig and Rosewood. soapandpaperfactory.com
2. SKIN SOFTENER
Olive oil has been used in beauty products for thousands of years in the Mediterranean. Experience the effects with Jardin de l'Olivier Bath & Shower Cream from Baudelaire. baudelairesoaps.com
3. BATH TIME
Inspired by bathing ceremonies like those practiced in Japan, Morocco and ancient Rome, Abahna offers exotically scented soaps, foams, salts, candles and this Dispersing Bath Oil for a multisensory experience. abahna.co.uk
4. PURE SCENT
Red Flower's new Organic Perfume Concentrates contain pure botanical distillations. Champa is a feminine floral; Ambrette is earthy and musky; and Guaiac is woodsy with a hint of citrus. redflower.com
5. SALT SOAK
Made from 100-percent Sicilian salt, Ortigia Sicilia Orange Blossom Bath Salts are scented with citrus, neroli, petitgrain and woody notes. ortigia-srl.com
6. BAR NONE
Castelbel's lovely soaps are hand-crafted in Portugal with olive, palm and coconut oils and come in two sizes in fragrances like Lemon & Sage, Honeysuckle and Cucumber. castelbel.com
7. LIP LOVE
Ikove by Florestas offers organic beauty products that contain ingredients from the Brazilian Rain Forest. Buriti Fruit Lip Balm contains wild-harvested murumuru kernel butter, buriti oil and beeswax. ikove.com
8. SPACE SAVER
The PetiteEssence fragrance reed sets from Agraria San Francisco come in concentrated scents like Balsam and Riviera Pear and are perfectly sized for small spaces. agrariahome.com
Lather, Rinse, Repeat
We took a look at some of the many specialty shampoos on the market today. For the record, fragrance is key.
For most people, the act of shampooing is merely the routine cleansing process associated with the removal of dirt, dandruff and other contaminants from one's hair. But what many don't realize is that the rich, suds-soaking experience we embrace today has an equally rich history.
For a long time, the shampooing process was more than just the practical stripping of hair buildup. Introduced to Britain in the 19th century from colonial India, the now familiar English word and concept of shampoo is derived from the Hindi term chãmpo, meaning "head massage with hair oil." It wasn't until the 20th century that the meaning of the word shifted from massage to that of washing hair. Now, with an increased attention being drawn to specialty products, shampoo's functionality seems to have stolen the spotlight.
"Today's consumer expects products that are made for him or her," says Marianne Knutson, executive director of shampoo, styling and professional haircare for Aveda. "That's why the industry has moved from general shampoos to products that are highly specialized."
The wide range of specialty shampoos on the market includes color-preserving, scalp-normalizing, volumizing, thermal-protecting, smoothing and strengthening products. The most popular category, however, is moisture-replenishing shampoos, according to Reuben A. Carranza, managing director, Procter & Gamble Professional Care Exclusive Line Organization (North America). He recommends using moisture-rich products that replenish natural hair lipids. "Lipids help retain more water for increased hair softness," he says.
With so many shampoos to choose from, a stylist's understanding of a client's hair type and texture is pertinent. Besides helping clients identify which shampoo works best for their hair needs, hairdressers should also educate them on how to keep their locks healthy and hydrated. "The professional stylist adds priceless value to each bottle," says Nina Kovner, senior vice president for John Paul Mitchell Systems. "Their exceptional knowledge and understanding of their clients' hair types and textures really make a difference in the end."
Besides the functionality of shampoo, another important aspect of hair products is their scent. "Performance and aroma go hand-in-hand," Knutson says. "When someone takes a shower, the aroma transports the user and really gives him or her a wholesome and soothing experience." Companies devote money, resources and research to create signature fragrances. Shampoo aromas, cultivated through essential oils, account for fragrances made with popular notes like rosemary, lavender, bergamot, ylang ylang, chamomile, tangerine and thyme.
Along with providing a defining personality to the shampoo, the aroma can have therapeutic effects. "Aromatherapy has been used for nearly 6,000 years for spiritual, hygienic and ritualistic purposes," says Steven Henley, director of education for Pureology. "Through the incredibly powerful sense of smell, the receptors in your nose communicate with two structures embedded in your brain that serve as storehouses for emotions and memories. Researchers believe that once stimulated, these structures influence our physical and emotional health."
Stylists can understand their clients' hair needs through in-depth consultations. By helping them select personalized products that will both treat and accentuate their hair, salons can offer their clients a truly unique shampoo experience. —JAIMIE HWANG
A shampoo's fragrance can trigger powerful memories and emotions.
1) Aveda Dry Remedy features a floral blend of certified-organic oils like palmarosa, ylang ylang and rose germanium (aveda.com); 2) KIS Shampoo is a rich, sulfate-free formula with a fresh pineapple fragrance (kishaircare.com); 3 ) Tela Beauty Organics Melody from Philip Pelusi has a vibrant aroma cultivated from 35 organic ingredients such as apricot, burdock root and Chinese orchid (philippelusi.com); 4) Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Lavender Mint is a stress-relieving service with herbal, soul-soothing ingredients (paulmitchell.com); 5) Pureology NanoWorks' allergen-free fragrance, with notes of jasmine, vanilla, amber and rose, promotes a positive sense of well-being (pureology.com); 6) Aetó Botanica Bamboo and Yucca Fortifying Shampoo purifies the spirit with its natural and refreshing aroma (aetobotanica.com).
Overprocessed hair can benefit from a shampoo that reverses the damage.
1) J Beverly Hills Fragile contains nettle and sage botanical extracts to treat over-stressed locks (jbeverlyhills.com); 2) TIGI Oatmeal & Honey is a proprietary mixture of cucumber, kiwi and coconut extracts that nourishes fragile hair (tigihaircare.com); 3) Profound Beauty Anatomy's honeylike texture boasts botanical ingredients that replenish hair's emolliency (profoundbeauty.com); 4) Joico K-PAK Hair Repair uses a blend of keratin proteins to restore elasticity (joico.com); 5) Organic Color Systems Power Build contains sunflower seed extract, wheat protein and vitamin B5 to rebuild hair and add body (organiccolorsystems.com).
Maintaining a healthy scalp is mandatory for improving self-esteem and keeping the hair in good condition. But as people see their scalps scaling, itching and flaking, they turn to specialty shampoos for treatment. According to Pureology Director of Education Steven Henley, anti-dandruff products make up about 13 percent of the total consumer haircare spending, leading to a demand in the creation of specialty shampoos.
Henley offers some insight into treating problem flakes. "Products with pyrithione zinc, the most widely accepted active ingredient to combat dandruff, help prevent the occurrence of dandruff symptoms while strengthening and rebuilding the hair," he says, stressing that an added combination of organic botanicals can help soothe the scalp.
Henley recommends using an anti-dandruff shampoo and conditioner in combination. Stylists should use anti-dandruff shampoo to protect and strengthen their clients' hair, Henley says, followed by a conditioner to restore and calm the scalp and prevent future flaking. —J.H.
1) Nioxin Scalp Recovery is infused with antioxidants to neutralize damaging free radicals (nioxin.com); 2) Eugene Perma Paris Essentiel Exfoliant has anti-microbial and antioxidant properties (eugeneperma.com); 3) Keune Derma Exfoliating Shampoo contains octopirox to remove and protect against flakes (keune.com); 4) Goldwell InnerEffect Regulate Anti-Dandruff Shampoo protects color-treated hair from fading (goldwell-northamerica.com); 5) Pureology DandruffScalpCure Shampoo contains pyrithione zinc and a blend of certified-organic botanicals (pureology.com); 6) Redken Dandruff Control utilizes lavender extract and glycerin to calm and clarify the scalp (redken.com).
Their Favorite Things
Session stylists need heat appliances they can rely on, especially during fashion week. Lori Morris asked six of them to dish about their favorites.
Hairstylist, GUIDO PALAU
Redken Creative Consultant Guido Palau loves his BaByliss PRO GT Gold Titanium Marcel Curling Iron. "I look for tools that let me produce great work, get really hot and don't break after a few shows." babylisspro.co.uk
If you're seeking fast results, check out the 1800-watt HairArt H3000 Tourmaline Dryer, which is infused with tourmaline technology to dry hair in one-third of the time of regular dryers. hairartproducts.com
Hairstylist, TRAVIS SPECK
Bumble and bumble's Travis Speck calls the Turbo Power Turbo 2800 Silverado Dryer "a hairstylist's must-have." Why? How about the ergonomic design, customizable heat settings and ability to dry even the most unruly hair fast. turbopowerinc.com
Speck also cites fast-heating tools as essential when working backstage at shows. The FHI Heat Runway employs patented Nano-Fuzeion technology and an Integrated Ceramic Heating System to deliver high heat and mega shine. fhiheat.com
Hairstylist, JIMMY PAUL
Bumble and bumble's Jimmy Paul likes the Linea Pro C2 Digital Flat Iron, which features advanced titanium technology to produce more negative ions and far-infrared rays for fast, even heat. linea-pro.com
The innovative SalonTech Silicone Hairstyling Iron uses patented silicone plates to grab every strand and smooth hair in just one stroke for speedier results and less wrist strain.877/278-9030
Hairstylist, JENNY BALDING
Redken's Jenny Balding is a big fan of T3 tools. "You need tools that will help you to work fast, but also yield fantastic results," she says. The lightweight T3 Bespoke Evolution dryer has 2000 watts of power to speed up drying time. t3micro.com
The InfraShine RedLine Iron also produces great results fast. The iron heats up in seconds and uses infrared heat from its ceramic multilayered plates to maintain and lock in hair's natural shine. infrashine.com
Hairstylist, DAVID CRUZ
Redken's David Cruz always carries fast-heating Hot Tools curling irons. "I need to get 20 girls looking good and ready to go in two hours or less," he says. The Hot Tools 1" Professional Marcel Iron restores heat loss quickly. hottools.com
Cruz also likes tools that are "compact and light enough to carry from job to job." Sounds like the 1875-watt Andis Ceramic Tourmaline Hair Dryer, which is ultralightweight but also has a high-velocity, hyper DC motor. andis.com
Hairstylist, ORLANDO PITA
Orlando Pita, who developed a line of T3 styling products, uses the brand's tools for all of his backstage work. The T3 PRO.EverTwirl has a tourmaline- and silver-infused barrel that, according to Pita, "gives curls a very shiny and smooth finish." t3micro.com
For Pita, versatility is key. The Cricket Centrix Technique 1" Styling Iron features rounded plates to enable both straightening and curling. The iron also uses ionic/ceramic technology for damage-free results. cricketco.com
What Stylists Want
Stylists who work in the salon all day have very specific requirements when it comes to the tools they use. We asked three pros to tell us what they look for.
Hairstylist, DAVID DIEGUEZ
David Dieguez, creative director of Blow, the New York Blow Dry Bar likes simple tools that get the job done without causing any thermal damage. "I'll spend more money on quality tools that are good for the hair," he says. "For example, I'll splurge on a ceramic-plate flat iron because it's nondamaging," he says. The new Paul Mitchell Express Ion Style 1.0 uses a blend of ceramic and silicone that smoothes from the inside out, leaving hair hydrated, conditioned and frizz-free. paulmitchell.com
The iTech Tourmaline Hair Dryer contains tourmaline crystals that deliver the maximum number of negative ions and far-infrared heat, which leaves hair healthy and shiny and free of thermal damage. The infrared heat also reduces the need for strong wind velocity, cutting back on tangling and cuticle abrasion. itechproducts.com
Dieguez also likes tools that can do more than one job at once. One that does just that is the TIGI Hardcore Professional Fat Curl Stick. The tapered, ceramic-coated barrel enables stylists to achieve any curl they want, from tight ringlets to large, soft curls. tigihaircare.com
Hairstylist, LUKE O'CONNOR
Luke O'Connor, owner of Lukaro Salon in Beverly Hills, CA, relies on the lightweight and ergonomic FHI Heat Nano Salon Pro 2100 Turbo Blow Dryer. "This dryer helps me get through a busy day pain-free," O'Connor says. This newest offering from FHI Heat is aerodynamically designed to offer 25 percent more air velocity than other similar dryers without increasing the body weight or noise level. Its powerful AC-motor, rated to last for 1,200 hours of use, packs such a wallop that it's hard to believe how light and compact this dryer really is. fhiheat.com
It doesn't get much lighter than the Diane Jetz Mini Flat Iron, made for travel, but also perfect for smoothing bangs or short hair. The 5.75-inch iron may be small, but its ceramic plates still heat up to 420 degrees. The iron also features an ergonomic grip and an extralong cord that's perfect for the styling station. frommonline.com
"It's important that tools are ergonomically correct to prevent carpal tunnel," O'Connor says. The Belson Gold 'N Hot Elite Euro Pro Ionic Dryer has an ergonomic design and an ultrabalanced body to give busy wrists a break. The dryer's ionic generator also emits millions of ions to condition hair while it dries. belsonproducts.biz
Hairstylist, ANTHONY LINZALONE
Anthony Linzalone from New York City's Pierre Michel Salon says that his Turbo Power Twin Turbo 3200, "is fast, small and high energy—everything a stylist needs to give the perfect blow-out." The lightweight, long-lasting dryer provides up to 2,000 styling hours and claims to be the most powerful dryer on the market. "My main goal when drying a client's hair is to get the hair dry fast because that makes it easier to style it straight or to lock in the curl," Linzalone says. turbopowerinc.com
Linzalone is also concerned about EMF (electromagnetic field) levels. "No one wants to breathe in bad air, especially stylists who are around it all day," he says. The ergonomically designed HAIclassic PRO SST Ionic Hair Dryer minimizes EMF exposure. haiclassicpro.com
Dryers that don't make a lot of noise are also high on Linzalone's list. "I like to talk to my clients, and I can't hear them if the dryer is too loud," he says. The Wigo Abstrax Salon Dryer has a newly designed and engineered lightweight professional motor that gives a powerful yet superquiet performance. wigo.com
Eight brand-new products you just have to check out
Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener is a fragrance-free on- and off-scalp lightener that reconstructs as it lightens. The formula contains a quadramine complex and vitamin-rich shea butter to lift up to eight levels, keep foils in place, provide even lift along the entire hair shaft, and leave hair soft, shiny and in optimum condition. joico.com
ALL THE TRIMMINGS
The D5X rechargeable clipper and trimmer from Andis, part of its Experience line, can be used with a cord or cordless for styling, touch-ups and hair designing. It is equipped with detachable clipper and trimmer blades and four attachment combs, protection circuitry to prevent overcharging and a charger stand. andis.com
Rene Furterer Carthame No-Rinse Protective Cream for dry hair restores hair's natural moisture and features a UV filter to protect it from damage. This conditioning cream contains safflower oil and green hazelnut fragrance to help hair regain its softness, hydration and smoothness and leave it with a light scent. furterer.com
IT'S ONLY NATURAL
HAIelite all-natural Paddle Brushes feature a natural, lightweight beech wood handle with rubber cushion and high-quality boar bristles, which are used to polish the surface of the hair. In addition, the brush's cushion shape helps absorb pressure, creating a more delicate touch on the scalp and hair. hai-elite.com
GET A GRIP
The Sam Villa Signature Series Brushes collection consists of three round boar-bristle brushes in small, medium and large; a nine-row finishing brush; a cushioned styling brush (shown here); and a cushioned paddle brush. Each brush features a mahogany wood finish, extra length in the grip and offers more support for the palm and wrist. samvilla.com
WHAT A CURL WANTS
Designed for medium to coarse curly hair, Redken Fresh Curls Curl Recovery is a rinse-out mask that helps prevent breakage and replenishes dry hair. Ingredients include coconut oil, which provides moisture; oleo-amido, which smooths the hair cuticle; and protein, which strengthens hair and prevents damage. Curls are left defined, frizz-free and shiny. redken.com
Daily Conditioner, the newest addition to the J Beverly Hills Men line, is formulated with a blend of avocado, pomegranate and oils of peppermint, rosemary and baobab that improve hair elasticity, aid in scalp stimulation, encourage regeneration of skin cells, protect hair from free radicals, provide moisture to the hair and scalp and add a healthy sheen to hair. jbeverlyhills.com
Oster Professional Products Mojo Cord/Cordless Clipper, a new addition to its ESS line, features a lightweight ergonomic design and a hybrid blade system that adjusts to 10 different cutting sizes using only two blades, which significantly reduces the heat and weight associated with traditional blades. This clipper comes with six comb attachments. osterstyle.com
MAD ABOUT HUE
A New Paradigm in Education
Globally renowned colorist and former technical artistic director for Aveda David Adams has started his own haircolor training company, Red Chocolate. The idea is to connect the art and business of color by taking a three-pronged approach to education, providing a combination of both "bricks and mortar" and online learning. The company has formed a strategic alliance with Inyu Training, an online education company that fuses passion and talent to provide interactive training for industry professions. "Quite simply, we have a passion to make service providers better at what they do and to teach salon owners how to run a better business," says Virginia Meyer, co-founder and COO of Red Chocolate. For more info, contact Meyer at email@example.com. —M.D.
Playing It Cool
Help your clients be cool this spring with the new PM Shines Ash Series from PAUL MITCHELL. These three new shades—Cloud Nine for the lightest ash blonde, Moonbeam for a dark ash blonde and Starry Night for dark ash brown—are designed to control warmth while delivering high shine and enhancing smoothness. The Ash Series can be used to cool down other PM Shines formulas, for color correction or to add cool complements to all-over color. paulmitchell.com —L.M.
The options are endless with the new ISO i.Luminate demipermanent crème color, whether colorists choose to use it as an all-over color refresher, an introductory color service for first-time clients or to create multidimensional lowlights. The ammonia-free, acid-balanced formula features ISO's patented blend of Triplex C, Tri-Active Technology plus vitamin C, cupuacu butter and babassu oil to soothe, condition and protect the hair and scalp. The unique Color Match System allows colorists to coordinate their formulas with ISO's i.Color permanent color shades, and they can create customized looks by mixing i.Luminate with i.Color Intensifiers. isohair.com —L.A.