As Editor in Chief of American Salon, Kelley Donahue reports on all aspects of the professional beauty industry, including salon business-building strategies, seasonal hair and fashion trends, salon services and techniques, and timely issues impacting manufacturers, schools, salons and distributor principals. In addition to conducting photo shoots--one of which was the recipient of an ABBIES Award for Best Magazine Cover--Donahue also travels extensively throughout the U.S. and abroad, sourcing out new trends and representing American Salon at major industry functions and educational events.
Tousled tresses were the crowning glory on nearly all the runways this season, including designer Corey Lynn Calter's show held during the Los Angeles Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Offsetting Calter's collection of sweet dresses and stunning plaid suit ensembles were hairstyles crafted by Jacky Beasse, a stylist at L.A.'s swank Privé Salon. To create the looks, Beasse center-parted the hair and divided it into square sections before wrapping strands around a small curling iron from the ends up to the roots and misting with hairspray. After combing out the curls with his fingers, he backcombed the hair, beginning at the roots and stopping in the middle, being careful not to touch the ends. "The backcombing must be light and smooth," cautions Beasse. "The goal is to achieve a foaming effect." To create these looks for your clients, Beasse offers the following tips.
- Achieve loose, flowing waves on stick-straight hair by lightly misting small hair sections with a lightweight spray before creating pin curls throughout the head. Gently remove pins and finger-comb hair.
- Obtain different curly textures in one head of hair by pulling out a small hair section and gently working some wax into it. Randomly select other sections and repeat.
- Part the hair for the desired effect. For glamorous looks, part on top of the head, starting from the nose; for retro, start from the middle of the eyebrow.
- Have clients shampoo and condition the day before they visit the salon for best results. This will make any curls you create have staying power.
- Avoid using products that weigh hair down. This makes it hard for the hair to hold a curl.
- Don't try to curl too big a hair section at a time. This will make it more difficult to achieve gentle waves. —K.D.