Contributing editor Karen Ford has been writing for the beauty industry for the past ten years. As editor of most special projects and supplements to American Salon, she specializes in bringing editorial appeal to market-driven messages. Karen also writes and edits the editorial pages of Questex's annual Green Book directory.
Rafe Hardy, Sexy Hair artistic creative director, teamed up with German salon owner/stylist Sebastian Lynen to create this graphic yet feminine update on the wedge. “I wanted a very disconnected look with a multitude of styling options,” says Hardy. While the finish is sleek, extra length at the top allows for added volume in a variety of silhouettes. Here are Hardy’s steps for recreating the cut in your salon.
- Section out the top profile from just below the parietal to above the occipital using a curved parting and clip it out of the way. Subdivide the remaining hair into two equal sections, top and bottom. Use a scissor over comb technique on the underneath section to create a slight short-to-long vertical graduation.
- Subdivide the middle section into vertical subsections. Cut straight out from the head shape up at 45 degrees and a finger angle of 45 degrees to create graduation. Leave the sections in front of the ear longer and disconnected by cutting down and out at 45 degrees and, using the previous section above the ear as your entry guide, cutting to the desired length.
- Release the top section and part down the middle. Section out the desired fringe using a curved parting to the corner of each eye. Subdivide the remaining top into radial sections at the crown. Cut each section straight out from the head shape at 45 degrees. Cut down and out using the underneath as your guide and cut approximately the same length in front of the ear. For the sections in front of the ear, use the longer length underneath as your guide.
- Each section is elevated straight up at 45 degrees and, using a slicing movement, cut shorter at the crown to the existing length. Comb the fringe down to its natural falling position and cut to the desired length, then detail and style.
- Comb Style Sexy Hair 450° Blow Out Heat Defense Blow Out Spray throughout the hair and flat-wrap following the head shape.
- Apply Style Sexy Hair 450° Headset Heat Defense Setting Spray and flat-iron locks to polish.
- Detail with Style Sexy Hair Molding Paste Flexible Sculpting Paste.
✂ —Karen Ford