American Salon Staff
A half-dozen of the best new beauty products on the market this month
PAINT THE TOWN
OPI's holiday 2007 collection includes twelve new shades that will perfectly accessorize any festive look. The collection, called Holiday in Hollywood, consists of six glamorous reds and six dazzling darks and neutrals, such as the three gorgeous colors seen here, from top: Have You Seen My Limo?, Stars in My Eyes and Who are You Wearing? opi.com
WHIP IT GOOD
Like all Innersense products, the new Inner Peace Whipped Crème Texturizer is free of irritating chemicals. The cream provides a lightweight, flexible hold that creates separation and definition. Certified-organic shea butter, fruit oils and wheat protein condition hair, while sunflower seed extract protects color from fading. innersensebeauty.com
RAISE THE ROOT
Lift hair up where it belongs with Giovanni Cosmetics Root 66 directional root lifting spray. The formula is made with such certified-organic botanicals as soybean protein, rosemary oil and wild bergamot. A nozzle allows the user to direct the spray onto hair at the exact spots where lift and volume are most wanted. giovannicosmetics.com
Power-packed with antioxidants, John Masters Organics Pomegranate Facial Nourishing Oil helps protect dry skin. The certified-organic oil was created at the request of The Spa at Whole Foods in Austin, TX, where it's used in facials and also mixed with moisturizer for a nurturing, leave-on treatment, which is how it should be used at home. johnmasters.com
FIRST-CLASS FLAT IRON
The Friction-Free Flat Iron from Cricket Company is equipped with tourmaline-coated plates and rounded edges that reduce damage and produce silky strands. It also boasts a comb-guide house for detangling; snag-free, suspension floating plates; multiple heat settings; and a lock that keeps it in the closed position. cricketco.com
Banish weak strands and kiss damaged hair goodbye with Miss Jessie's Rapid Recovery Treatment, for all hair types. This rich, deep-conditioning cream contains shea butter, avocado cream oil and vegetable oil to add strength, length, elasticity and shine. Apply once a week for 10 minutes to banish brittle hair for good. missjessies.com
TURN UP THE VOLUME
When it comes to styles with body and bounce, these 24 volumizers will help you reach for the sky.
Bigger is better, and volumizers are the perfect tool for bringing hair to new heights. However, not all volumizers are alike. These pump-up products can come in the form of gels, mousses or sprays, explains Juan Carlos Maciques of the Rita Hazan Salon in New York City. Gels offer the most control, but they're the most difficult to work with and the stickiest. Mousses can deliver strong hold as well, with the added bonus of expanding the hair cuticle. For a lighter touch without stiffness, sprays are the way to go. No matter what the form, people with straight, fine or limp hair covet these styling aids to add a much-needed injection of body and fullness, but all hair types can benefit from their boosting abilities. "Volumizers give you a foundation from which to do all the rest with your hair," Maciques says. "If you don't have the proper foundation, then what you're going to do will collapse." So whether your clients want Texas-sized pageant hair or just a little lift in their locks, here are a few volumizers that give you the means to achieve the look they want. —SAMANTHA BEERMAN
At Betsey Johnson key stylist Italo Gergorio for Redken used mousse to take hair higher.
Great as a primer underneath styling products, the sulfate- and sodium-free Alterna Hemp Volumizing Spray Leave-In Conditioner protects hair from thermal styling while adding a boost of volume. 4alterna.com
Aveda Volumizing Tonic's formula of wheat amino acids and certified-organic aloe helps build body and adds lustrous shine, while echinacea acts as an anti-irritant for the hair and scalp. aveda.com
Wind in the Willow
Containing white willow extract, which assists in building body and adding fullness, Bain de Terre's liquid-to-foam Rise 'n Shine White Willow Volumizing Foam brings life to limp hair. baindeterre.com
To pump up fine, flat hair, Barex Italiana Volumizzante Spray micro-mist contains special cotton proteins that strengthen and protect the hair shaft while adding bounce and shine and reducing static. oloffbeauty.com
Formulated with ginseng extract to energize the hair follicle, Empower Full features cucumber extract for hydration, vitamin E and hydrolyzed vegetable protein for added strength. beautyempower.com
Bold and Beautiful
Complete with a fun, fruity fragrance, Fudge Root Juice medium-hold root booster creates big, bold hair with a directional nozzle that gets the product right to the root of the hair. fudge.com
Pump up lifeless hair with Goldwell Styling Double Boost Rootlift Spray, which makes hair feel thicker and stronger, and also creates durable hold and natural shine. goldwellusa.com
Used alone or mixed with other styling products, Joico Body Luxe Thickening Elixir styling crème transforms limp locks into luxuriously thick hair, noticeably adding volume and providing weightless control. joico.com
With a unique dispenser for precise application at the roots, Kenra Root Volumizing Serum provides the foundation for styles that require fullness, body and shine. kenra.com
With a fresh ginger-verbena fragrance, Volumizing Foam from KIS infuses hair cuticles with reconstructive properties and conditioning ingredients for all-day hold and humidity resistance. kishaircare.com
For textured looks that don't feel sticky, KMS California Addvolume Root and Body Lift lightweight spray foam contains eucalyptus and cinnamon for targeted volume or all over support. kmscalifornia.com
Matrix Amplify Foam Volumizer creates the look of naturally thick, voluminous hair by boosting each strand from the base, and also adds style control and conditioning for a touchable feel. matrix.com
MOP Lemongrass Lift, containing certified-organic extracts of lemongrass, grapeseed, apple cider vinegar, wheat protein and gingko, removes pollutants, conditions locks and produces voluptuous styles. mopproducts.com
The alcohol-free Nexxus Phyto Organics Maxify Volumizing Mousse blends instantly into hair to add maximum volume without leaving behind a stiff or sticky feel. nexxus.com
Nioxin Volumizing Reflectives Root Lifter features BioAmp, a glyco-protein technology that adds thickness to the inside of the cuticle to strengthen fine hair and lift it off of the scalp. nioxin.com
Dubbed "liquid hair," Ojon's Hydrating Thickening Spray is a daily intensive volumizing therapy that nourishes, repairs and strengthens hair as it plumps up limp locks. ojon.com
Get to the Root
Sprayed directly onto roots, Phyto Phytovolume Actif volumizer spray uses the active properties of real hair proteins and beetroot extract to increase the diameter of each hair strand. phyto.com
Profound Beauty Volume Power creates the look of thick, windblown hair through a 75-mph spray that propels the product directly to the root for intense lift and volume. profoundbeauty.com
Created for color-treated hair, PureOlogy PureVolume BlowDry Amplifier contains lightweight, heat-activated molecules that penetrate the hair shaft to deliver body, moisture, shine and color protection. pureology.com
For natural movement and body, Redken Body Full Weightlifter root lift styling treatment is a leave-in product that builds instant volume at the roots when applied to towel-dried hair. redken.com
Featuring a grapefruit, lychee and white tea scent, Big Sexy Hair So Pumped Volumizing Mist creates massive volume while maintaining a natural appearance for all-day style or a quick refresher. sexyhair.com
Just spray ThermaFuse Boost thickening spray at the roots and blow dry to create bouncy body, incredible thickness and effective support for any hair type. thermafuse.com
Plump It Up
TIGI S-Factor Body Booster Plumping Spray works on damp or dry hair to deliver soft, movable body and voluminous lift, while adding gloss and conditioning at the same time. tigihaircare.com
Wella System Professional Volumagic is a flexible, light-hold volumizing mousse that builds long-lasting body and contains nanoreflectors to create brilliant radiance and shine. wella.com
THE COLOR OF MONEY
Haircolor not only changes a client's look faster than anything else, but it's also one of your most profitable services. Take a peek at the new products being introduced by 20 major haircolor companies.
Full Spectrum Deep is a high-lift conditioning crème haircolor formulated to address the needs of clients with dark hair—natural levels 1 to 4. Formulated with the ideal balance of lift and deposit to deliver true-to-tone results, it provides up to five levels of lift in a single process—all in just 20 minutes. The line of 93-percent naturally derived formulas contains plant oils for healthier, shiny-looking hair and is available in 21 shades that can be completely customized to create more than 57 different hues. aveda.com
The new TIGI Colour Line makes it easy to create shiny, vibrant haircolor.
Fortified with a proprietary deep-conditioning Soy Complex, which smoothes and softens the hair shaft to lock in tone, improve compatibility and enhance sheen, Clairol Professional Premium Crème nourishes as it colors. Built on a Nine Tonal Pillar Formulation System, the line is available in 46 intermixable shades in an easy-to-follow system that allows colorists quicker, more reliable color selection. Formulated with high-quality pigments that cover gray and resist fading, Premium Crème also features 28 shades that match the most popular Miss Clairol colors. clairolpro.com
FAROUK SYSTEMS GROUP
Ammonia-free CHI Ionic Permanent Shine Color incorporates CHI 44 technology, which provides maximum color penetration for longer-lasting results and a Cationic Hydration Interlink that builds strength and improves moisture and resilience. Available in 95 luxurious colors with eight premixed additives for total control, the easy-to-use line features an exceptional high-lift blond series, formulations that deliver 100-percent gray coverage and a silk cream base that leaves hair shiny and in superior condition. farouk.com
Fudge Headpaint simplifies the color selection process with a new range of easy-to-use colors. Choose from 79 shades, including the new Base Coat collection. New organic conditioning ingredients provide great shine so the hair looks healthier than ever before. fudge.com
"A fascinating, brilliant red combined with a strong cut is the best possible advertisement for any salon," says Shane Henning, a colorist from Australia and a member of Goldwell's 2007 Trend Zoom International Team. That's reason enough to try the new Topchic Max Red series—advanced permanent reds that offer a new brilliant and breathtaking intensity plus maximum durability. Available in depot cans or tubes, six high-performance, true-red shades range from warm to cool. The new vibrant RR-Mix opens up endless mixing opportunities for creative accents. High-performance formulas feature Goldwell's exclusive RayMax dyestuff technology, patented Coenzyme Technology and Color Equalizer System for balanced, even color. goldwellusa.com
Goldwell Topchic Max Red Series
Prepare to be wowed by Color Intensity, a new semi-permanent shade collection by Vero K-PAK available for a limited time this fall and winter. Four semi-permanent crème colors—Magenta, Purple, Blue and Green, plus a Clear Mixer designed to provide stylists with the power to control each shade's intensity—are infused with the Quadramine Complex, the reconstructive technology that produces vibrant, true-tone pigments and delivers the ultimate in healthy, intensely colored hair. joico.com
JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS
Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color recently added nine new golden hues (PM Shines 9NG, 6NG and 3NG), red brown shades (Paul Mitchell The Color 7RB, 6RB, 5RB and 4RB) and rich, ruby red tints (PM Shines 6R and 3R) to its color lineup. Ammonia-free PM Shines adds intense hydration, brilliant shine and improved manageability, while delivering natural-looking color in as little as 20 minutes. Fortified with a rich beeswax base that delivers long-lasting, conditioned, shiny haircolor, Paul Mitchell The Color provides superior gray coverage, while yielding predictable results, and is loaded with natural conditioners. paulmitchell.com
Tinta Color, a cream color with 100-percent gray coverage, offers the haircolorist an infinite color palette and provides unlimited options for creative minds in all color applications, color accents, highlights and lowlights. The added LP 300 color stabilizer protects the integrity of the hair structure, while a silk protein conditioner provides shine and manageability. keune.com
Lisap LK Permanent Cream Color is rich in natural coconut extracts to protect the hair's keratin and structure. The formula has a low concentration of 1-percent ammonia and micro-molecular colors that gently penetrate the hair. Available in 107 shades, its self-timed formula makes it easy to get even color from roots to tips. lisapusa.com
A new Resurfacing Treatment, part of the Logics Color DNA System, launches this month. The post-color, rinse-out treatment contains ceramides to repair the hair and vitamin B5 to protect and smooth the cuticle. "It's a great add-on service that will help color last longer," says Elisa Delarm, senior director of marketing. matrix.com
The Chocolate Cherry Collection from SoColor and Color Sync includes 12 colors specifically formulated to enhance brunette hair. The two complementary collections and wide range of tones offer stylists great versatility and endless options for their brunette clients, while patented color-grip technology creates long-lasting vibrancy, tone and shine. The collection also features two rich tonal series: six brown-red and six brown-copper shades. The lush brown-reds contain chestnut- mahogany tones with highlights in rich cherry, while the brown-coppers include maple- amber tones that create a lively brown with copper highlights. matrix.com
Aloxxi Chroma Colour from Nexxus delivers five options in one single tube. The line, which features a palette of natural, bold and creative shades, plus gem concentrates to intensify color, is nonprogressive so there's no need to worry about getting hair too dark or too light should the formula be left on longer than recommended. The line can be formulated for a 1 to 1 and ½ ratio, making it an affordable salon color option. nexxus.com
Give your clients what they want—shiny, silky hair—with Oloff's JOC Color Line. The 100-percent hypoallergenic haircoloring cream uses vegetable-derived ingredients, such as meadowfoam, to beget even color that lasts. It protects hair fibers from damage, contains UV filters to guard against sun-induced fading and is available in 68 different shades. Using the JOC Color Line, you can easily create brass-free blonds and fiery reds, and you can also completely cover gray. oloffbeauty.com
ORGANIC COLOUR SYSTEMS
Now available in the United States through International Hair & Beauty Systems, Organic Colour Systems (OCS) is a range of ammonia-free haircolor originally developed in London using technology from Italy. Because it contains far fewer chemicals than traditional haircolor formulas, OCS allows you to achieve rich, vibrant and long-lasting color, while avoiding harsh fumes, reducing the risk of scalp sensitivity or contact dermatitis and maintaining the integrity of the hair. Plus, your health-conscious clients are sure love it. organiccoloursystems.com
The Color Gels Copper Browns Collection includes three new shades: 6CB Cognac/Dark Copper Brown Blonde, 5CB Sandalwood/Light Copper Brown and 4CB Clove/Medium Copper Brown. Utilizing Redken's exclusive Select Dye System, the new shades deliver long-lasting, rich, burnished brown tones and warm, coppery accents to both pigmented and gray hair. Wheat proteins help protect the hair's structure, while avocado oil keeps hair soft. The gel consistency is perfect for bottle or bowl application. redken.com
Fanci-Tone Tint's collection of 18 shades is formulated with a calibrated level system for easy custom coloring. The line, which provides natural-looking results and fade-resistant color, is available in oxidation-proof canisters to extend the product's life, so color is good to the last drop, and also in single application 1.5-ounce bottles. In addition to permanently lightening or deepening natural haircolor and covering gray, Fanci-Tone Tint's rich, creamy consistency makes it easy to apply with a bottle or brush. 800/933-4303
Scruples High Definition Color Gel contains 10 pure, rich, basic colors that are all colorists need to create more than 150 permanent and demi-permanent haircolors. The easy-to-use system takes the guesswork out of color formulation. Each permanent color formula can be transformed into a demi-permanent formula by using Scruples' unique Demi-Permanent Developer, which neutralizes the ammonia content in the color gel, transforming the mixture into a no-lift, deposit-only color. What's more, the line features the most advanced haircolor technology, simplifying color use and selection, while reducing a salon's color inventory by 70 percent. scrupleshaircare.com
The TIGI Technical Team spent three years developing new TIGI Colour, an innovative crème-gel haircolor with P. (Penetration Delayed Oxidation Technology) that prevents premature oxidation until after the TIGI Colour molecule has penetrated the hair shaft. The simple-to-use, client-friendly line features five color categories that provide endless color options. The TIGI Colour Creative permanent color collection features 36 true-to-tone shades that can be easily intermixed and provide complete gray coverage. The ammonia-free, semi/demi TIGI Colour Radiant Gloss collection has 16 shades, plus one clear hue for the color-shy. With seven high-lift shades, TIGI Colour Ultra Lift provides controlled lifting and deposit for luxurious blonds in warm or cool tones. The TIGI Colour Mix Master collection features seven intense mixers that accent, intensify or modify any shade in the TIGI Colour Collection. Fast-acting TIGI Colour True Light is a zero-dust lightener infused with aloe vera and cucumber extracts that tones down unwanted brassy tones. tigihaircare.com
Refined Luxury, a look from Luxe Life, Wella's Colors of the World Fall/Winter '07 Collection, showcases gleaming decadent tones, such as sapphire, amethyst and onyx, created with Koleston Perfect Permanent Crème Haircolor. The comprehensive line, which features a Six-Point Synergy System for incredible condition, shine, vibrancy and perfect color results every time, contains more than 100 shades that can be intermixed to provide beauty pros with the most unique color palette available. wellausa.com
Refined Luxury from Wella's Colors of the World Collection
Voila Creme Permanent Haircolor from the Colomer Group is an Italian haircolor that penetrates hair with low levels of dye intermediates. This allows for less fading and more glamorous color results with 100-percent gray coverage. With the unique antioxidant system of Voila, the development of the artificial color molecules is delayed up to 15 minutes so the molecules achieve maximum penetration before they start changing chemically. Meanwhile, the unique antioxidant system prevents color from acting on the surface of the cuticle so it develops in the cortex. The result: Color holds and stays true to tone between services. colomer.com
The Magnificent Seven
Products every colorist should investigate
1. CLAIROL PROFESSIONAL Pure Golden Results Premium Crème Permanent Color
2. DENNIS BERNARD TCA2 provides quick haircolor coverage for super-resistant areas.
3. JOICO Color Intensity Semi-Permanent Blue Crème Color
4. KEUNE Tinta Color
5. LISAP MILANO LK Cream Color
6. REDKEN Color Gels Permanent Conditioning Haircolor
7. ROUX Fanci-Tone Professional Crème Hair Tint
MAD ABOUT HUE
KIM VO ON THE GO
In this issue, Vo talks about going to great lengths for beautiful hair.
One glance at the latest weekly gossip magazines is all it takes to know that hair extensions are an undeniably hot trend. Celebrities are going from short to long in a flash, and now everybody wants to get in on the act, including your clients. That's certainly not surprising, considering that hair extensions are a fast and easy way to gain a longer, more glamorous mane without waiting for hair to grow out—or praying for Mother Nature to miraculously replace thin, fine tresses with luxuriously thick ones.
When adding extensions to a client's hair, the most important thing to remember is that the color of the extensions does not easily fade. The best ones are made from 100-percent human hair, and each shade is essentially brewed for hours—compared to the average 30-minute processing time of on-the-head haircoloring. As a result, normal oxidation does not have the same dimming effect.
The most basic way to do extensions is simply to match the client's haircolor. To get the most effective results, first color your client's hair to the desired shade. I like to create a natural look by blending two to three colors in the same strand. If you're uncomfortable doing that, you can always alternate strands of single shades to get multidimensional color. The more shades you use, the more natural the end result will be. Order extensions in shades that complement the new color and wait two days after coloring before attaching them, to allow time for the cuticle to relax and the color to blossom. A word of advice: Don't attach extensions onto previously colored hair if there is any re-growth, because you'll end up with a color line.
Jessica Simpson wearing HairDo Clip-In Extensions from Hair U Wear
Not surprisingly, hair extensions provide a great opportunity for your clients to try out a new look without making a serious commitment. For example, to spice up a brunette's hair, you can add extensions in the back in her base shade, then highlight just the crown for increased dimension. When the extensions come out, the lightened areas will grow out easily, looking natural every step of the way.
For a bold and exciting variation on color, have fun with neon extensions. They're available in playful shades ranging from flaming orange to screaming pink. You can add two or three strands without having to bleach the hair at all, plus your client won't have to deal with the quick fading that invariably results when neon colors are applied to hair. Let's face it: That brilliant sky blue loses a lot of its impact when it pales to the soft shade of an old baby blanket. —E-mail Kim Vo at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Something to Talk About
Melissa Schriber, colorist at Patrick McIvor Color Studio in Bethlehem, PA, says you should always discuss these three issues with your clients before the foiling begins:
1. How often does the client plan to return to the salon? This will help you choose the most appropriate service, Schriber says. You wouldn't want to do a double process on someone who can't return every four-to-six weeks. Low-maintenance highlights might be a better option.
2. Is the hair damaged? If so, plan accordingly in order to get the same vibrant results you would on healthy hair. You may also want to allow time for a pre-color, deep-conditioning treatment.
3. What is the client's reason for coloring? Some people want to stand out or make a statement. Others may want a subtle change, gray coverage or a youthful touch. Finding out why a guest is opting for haircolor will help determine the best results for each client's individual personality, lifestyle and taste.
Everybody makes mistakes now and then. Fortunately, color mishaps are easier to correct now that Farouk has introduced its new Biosilk Silver Lights Cleanse and Condition System. Created with silk proteins, herbs and botanical extracts, the system moisturizes hair while neutralizing yellow tones. It brightens dull gray hues and eliminates brassiness from golden tones, and it even corrects problems for bleached and highlighted hair by balancing cool ash tones. farouk.com —C.W.
The affordable new bleach from Atlas Wholesale, Color Edge Lightener, is an extremely concentrated powder with a 1-1 mixture. Toned with blue to neutralize unflattering orange and gold overtones, the bleach can be used with any developer, lifts up to six levels without heat and up to seven with heat and is gentle enough to be used on or off the scalp. trycoloredge.com —L.A.
Organic color care
Simply Organic's Color Care Kit helps repair hair and scalp after harsh color services. The kit contains four products that are natural and gentle enough to use on the same day as a chemical service or treatment. Used together, they help rebuild and reconstruct hair from the inside out. simplyorganicbeauty.com —C.W.