American Salon Staff
A half-dozen of the best new beauty products on the market this month
MOISTURE TO THE MAX
Specifically created for parched skin, the Nourishing Collection of hand, body and lip butters, and shower and exfoliating creams from Fruits & Passion will keep skin hydrated year-round. The Moringa Butter, shown here, improves the elasticity of chronically dry skin, or you can try Avocado, Cocoa, Monoi, Olive, Sesame or Shea. fruits-passion.com
REASON TO INDULGE
It's All About Me, the fall 2007 collection from Olan Laboratories, features eight new lacquers inspired by some of the luxurious and pampering things women enjoy. The shades range from deep plums to warm browns and include the two shown here: Sun-Day Brunch, a fun metallic gold, and Day of Beauty, a shimmery blackberry. olanlabs.com
As the temperature drops this fall, soothe and protect skin with Dr. Sebagh Crème High Maintenance. It's specially formulated to work like a protective shield, with seven key ingredients that do it all, from decreasing the look of lines, firming skin, and evening out tone and texture to brightening and maintaining collagen levels. dr.sebagh.com
Made from globally sourced organic ingredients, Yarok's new Green with Envy Volume Shampoo delivers shine, strength and the asset those with fine hair covet most—volume. Key ingredients include seaweed extract, chamomile and nettles. Also available, Green with Envy Conditioner seals in moisture and improves managability. yarokhair.com
The new AeroPlus Styling Iron from InfraShine features patented, shine-enhancing ceramic technology, with micro-mesh ceramic heaters and powder-coated paddles, in addition to a shot of cool air that closes cuticles, seals in moisture and gives sleek or waved hairstyles staying power. infrashine.com
MUDDY DOES IT
One of four hair therapy products in Bain de Terre's new Botaniceuticals collection, the Hair Strengthening Mud Masque is like a spa treatment for the hair. Rich in essential minerals and gentle white clay, it improves the condition of weak or lifeless hair, reducing breakage by up to 65 percent in just one use. baindeterre.com
THE BIG IDEA
Mousse is making a comeback. We've rounded up 15 that provide an extra dose of voluptuous volume your clients will love.
Big hair skyrocketed in the 1980s and a new product, mousse, was behind the surge. The foamy formula brought already teased tresses to new heights and helped define heavy-metal hair. Charles Booth first introduced mousse, a polymer-based style enhancer, to America early in the decade, and today it's making a comeback. Natalie Yin, director of marketing for Matrix, noticed an increase in mousse sales between 2005 and 2006. "There's a trend toward glamour nowadays and people want that voluminous look," says Yin. Mousse, paired with other styling aids like gels and hairsprays, is the perfect product for adding that bountiful body. According to David Cannell, senior vice president of research and development and director of hair laboratories for L'Oréal USA, mousse has undergone improvements since L'Oréal started the craze in the early '80s, when it introduced the first major styling product meant to give hair body and hold it in place. Newer versions no longer weigh hair down or leave behind that crusty, crunchy feeling, and now stylists can select from a variety of choices, including root lifters, body builders and humidity defyers, to design any creative hairdo. Here's 15 mousses to add a boost to your collection. —SAMANTHA BEERMAN
Mousse is a surefire way to add fullness and body.
Using rare extracts and ingredients, like Ho-Sho-Wu root extract and freshwater pearl powder, Alterna Life Volumizing Spray Mousse lifts hair at the root. 4alterna.com
Aveda Phomollient Styling Foam pumps up the volume and shine of fine hair with a unique air-infused technology that is free from nonrenewable hydrocarbon propellants.
Good, Clean Fun
Barex Gloss Mousse creates hairdos in a cinch with its root-lifting, body-building properties that elevate roots, create body and amp up shine without stickiness or stiffness. oloffbeauty.com
Two in One
Curlisto Bio-Gel Mousse provides the control of a gel in a conditioning and styling mousse formula that seals ends for the flexibility to blow-dry, air-wave, scrunch or finger-dry hair. curlisto.com
Using an exclusive Oat Protein Complex to weightlessly thicken hair, Joico Body Luxe Design Foam works with thermal tools to create volume, texture and touchable softness. joico.com
Ideal for blow-drying, Kenra medium-hold Volume Mousse creates soft, natural styles while lightly conditioning the hair and controlling frizz and flyaways at the same time.
Hot or Not
The gel-mousse formula of Lisap Milano Sculture M-Fix can be used with heat to create shiny blow-dried styles or without heat for a natural frizz-free look. lisapusa.com
The nonaerosol Ambient Volumizing Foam Styler from Nexxus Phyto Organics is formulated with marshmallow root to add thickness without creating buildup. nexxus.com
Ojon Conditioning Volumizing Foam, containing pure ojon palm nut oil, fights the effects of humidity to reduce frizz, while adding body, control and color protection. ojon.com
Emollient conditioners in Paul Mitchell Sculpting Foam define curl and control frizz with medium hold, while Hawaiian awapuhi helps prevent moisture loss. paulmitchell.com
Phyto Pro Intense Volume Mousse hydrates and softens locks and swells the hair shaft to create long-lasting volume for any hair length or style. phyto-usa.com
PureOlogy RootLift is a light, alcohol-free, humidity-resistant spray-mousse for color-treated hair with a direct-to-root applicator for precise product placement. pureology.com
A mousse with a fast-breaking composition, Redken Guts 10 volume spray foam allows for exact placement and instant life, creating flexible, bold styles.
For messy looks with plenty of texture, a little bit of TIGI Bedhead Hookup Mousse Wax goes a long way in shaping and reshaping wet or dry hair.
System Professional Supermousse is an extra-strong-hold volumizing mousse that leaves hair shiny, as well as protected against humidity. system-professional.com
Flexible or firm, these varied gels let you create over-the-top styles and keep hair under control.
From Mohawks to mullets, some of hair's most iconic 'dos owe a debt of gratitude to gels. Long before modern-day polymer-based products hit the market, people styled their hair using plant-based jellylike materials. "For hundreds of years people have used lotions and potions that dried hard to set their hair," says David Cannell, senior vice president of research and development and director of hair laboratories for L'Oréal USA. "The history of gel is a long one, but it became a commercial product in the '50s with the development of synthetic polymers." With the introduction of Dippity-Do in the 1960s, hair gel starting popping up everywhere. In the '70s it reached new heights, with the goop being used to create far-out shapes and styles. Since then, the formula has been tinkered with, resulting in cream-based products, extra-strength holds, flake-free formulas and many other variations, but its popularity has remained consistent. Men love gel for its ease of use, while women appreciate its versatility—gels can add a boost of body, leave a glossy, wet-looking finish or create sky-high spikes. For any look you could ever want, there's a gel that can achieve it. Check out these 15 different gels that keep clients' hair perfectly in place. —SAMANTHA BEERMAN
One of TIGI's hairstyles from the 1980s, when big hair ruled and gel was the styling product of choice
Incorporating mica crystals and grapefruit, ABBA Pure Finish Gel's natural formula offers heat protection, volume, shine and control for all hair types. abbahaircare.com
The dual-polymer complex of American Crew's alcohol-free Firm Hold Styling Gel acts as a thickening agent and helps create ultimate control and hold without drying the hair or scalp. americancrew.com
Applied to damp hair, Big Sexy Hair Blow Dry Volumizing Gel is a firm-holding gel that, when used with heat, inflates strands and adds voluptuous body to any type of hair. sexyhair.com
Perfect for hard-to-hold styles, the CHI Infra Gel Maximum Control Gel shapes, molds, defines and spikes hair and also delivers incredible shine, without flaking or buildup. chiretail.com
With thickening fibers for staying power, Fudge Hair Gum delivers firm control for shorter styles and creates volume and support for longer looks, all with a fun bubblegum scent. fudge.com
For highly structured styles, GYM Grooming's Strength Power Maxx Gel provides ultimate control and is enriched with conditioning botanical extracts. gymgrooming.com
Formulated with botanical extracts of yarrow and thyme, J Beverly Hills' Gel Me maximum-hold gel sculpts, refines and texturizes hair for fashion-forward styles. jbeverlyhills.com
To the Extreme
Keune's Xtreme Jelly super-hold fast-drying gel with provitamin B5 creates extreme, edgy styles with maximum volume and lift without drying out hair.
Biolage Volumathérapie Bodifying Créme Gel from Matrix produces bouncy, moisturized, silky strands with its unique gel-to-créme formula containing uplifting eucalyptus and stimulating ginger. matrix.com
MOP's light-hold Form Foaming Gel contains extracts of certified-organic hyssop and nettle to build body and enhance curl in medium and fine hair. mophair.com
Containing natural proteins, conditioners and UV filters, which are nondamaging and nondrying, Organic Control Systems Spray Gel provides protection during the styling process. organiccoloursystems.com
In addition to adding shine and definition to curly hair, Pravana's Curl Enhancer Gel also boosts volume for fine locks, both straight and curly. pravana.com
Plump it Up
For manageability and resilience, Profound Beauty's Atmosphere Tropical Dew gel infuses moisture and volume to produce plump, shiny hair with pliable texture. profoundbeauty.com
Applied to damp or dry hair, ThermaFuse's Esculpt is a protein-rich, cream-based gel that encourages endless creativity for easy, long-lasting styles. thermafuse.com
Designed for all hair types, Warren-Tricomi's Blue Gel uses proprietary Advanced Styling Technology to impart firm yet flexible hold, perfect for sculpting, styling or blow-drying. warrentricomi.com
The skinny on texturizing services that help clients get it straight
For more than a decade now, powerful chemical relaxers that commonly fell under the banner of "Japanese Straightening" have pretty much been a standout attraction on salon menus across the county. And while many clients quickly became hooked on the beauty service, it had an ugly downside. According to Les Haverty, artistic director for FHI Heat, a manufacturer of high-tech heat styling innovations, including the FHI Heat Texture Smooth System, "The [Japanese] procedures packed some undesirable baggage, namely long hours of processing time, strong fumes that permeate the salon and, in many cases, eventual progressive damage to the treated hair."
Sleek, shiny hair is a real possibility thanks to new technology.
The good news is that the demand for straightening continues to be at an all time high. Today, stylists have more choices than ever before thanks to a spate of new kinder, gentler straightening options that seem to be cropping up in salons everywhere. Case in point: the new Brazilian Keratin Straightening Treatment offered at Mark Garrison Salon in Manhattan and Frédéric Fekkai salons in New York City and Palm Beach, FL. "Not only is the new Brazilian service a great alternative to the Japanese method but it takes half the time," says Brian Keller, a beauty guru at Fekkai's Palm Beach location. "In less than two hours, clients can obtain smoother, shinier, softer, sexier hair." The service, which starts at $450 and goes upward in price based on hair length and thickness, lasts two months on virgin locks and up to four months on other hair types. It uses keratin to straighten hair. The natural protein, which comprises approximately 88 percent of hair, penetrates the hair cortex to improve and repair the quality of strands from the inside out, reducing frizz while creating strands that are silky and straight. "The gentle system penetrates hair, repairing internal damage and coating strands to prevent further damage, and it can be used on hair that's been colored, relaxed or chemically treated," he adds.
Still, some are quick to point out the new Brazilian systems are not risk free. According to a recent New York Times article, "The formula often contains formaldehyde, a known carcinogen that can irritate the eyes and lungs if the fumes are inhaled." Currently, the Food and Drug Administration has no restrictions in place on formaldehyde being used in cosmetics.
The bottom line? Doing a little homework up front will pay off in the long run when it comes to choosing a system that's perfect for your salon. Get started by checking out the products on these pages.
Farouk Systems Group CHI Transformation System
The CHI Transformation System harnesses the power of ceramic heat, negative ions, pure natural silk and Cationic Hydration Interlink, a positively charged molecule that provides moisture and links to the hair fiber to transform frizzy, curly, wavy and even coarse, straight hair into silky, straight strands without the use of harsh chemicals. farouk.com
FHI Heat Texture Smooth System
This modern, hair-friendly alternative to previous straightening systems keeps hair at a less alkaline 6.7 pH, which means that the process is not as drying and leaves hair healthier. Another plus: It features a spray-on, leave-in neutralizer, which the company says is the first in the industry, as well as Hot Sauce, an FHI Heat conditioning serum used during the straightening process that's key to producing a mirror-like shine on the treated hair. Sold as a ready-to-use system consisting of six products, the line features Texture Smooth Permanent Cream, Leave-In Neutralizer, Hot Sauce, Deep Cleansing Shampoo, Sulfate Free Shampoo and Silicone-Free Conditioner. fhiheat.com
ISO Maintamer Straightening System
Clients who covet super-sleek, shiny hair but are afraid to go near a straightening system are going to love the ISO Maintamer Straightening System. A two-step system, Maintamer uses damage-free, thio-free, lye-free technology that processes primarily within the cortex of the hair to minimize damage to the cuticle. Step 1 alters the pattern of naturally curly or previously permed hair while softening it for increased smoothness and manageability. Step 2, fortified with botanical ingredients like lavender, cherry bark, lemongrass, rosemary and soybean protein, provides superior conditioning and adds incredible shine and protection. Ideal for normal, previously permed, tinted or lightly highlighted hair, the system delivers unsurpassed smoothness and manageability, superior conditioning and shine. isohair.com
Lisap USA Uni Straightening System
Lisap USA's Uni Straightening System allows you to achieve straight hair in a snap without damage. Available in three strengths—Strong for resistant hair, Regular for normal-textured, natural hair, and Soft for tinted and fine hair—the easy-to-use system leaves hair perfectly straight, silky and incredibly shiny. lisapusa.com
Matrix Opti.smooth System
Matrix's new Opti.smooth features breakthrough technology that delivers two distinct, time-saving services with just one versatile product system. The cold process delivers light relaxing and tames unruly curls, while the heat-straightening option provides perfect and permanently straightened hair for clients desiring sleek locks and unfurled curls. Available in three formulas—Normal, Resistant and Sensitized—the system features Pre-Treat, which brings hair to optimum condition before using the chemicals; Neutralizer, a patent-pending silicone complex; and Post-Treat, which is loaded with cationic conditioners that add additional protection and conditioning at the end of the chemical process. matrix.com
Mizani Butter Blend Relaxer
Designed for women who covet more body and ultimate conditioning following a relaxer service, Mizani's new Butter Blend Relaxer in-salon system employs revolutionary relaxer technology with an ultra-moisturizing recipe of shea butter, cocoa butter and honey. The line includes Butter Blend Base Scalp Protector, Honey Shield Protective Pre-Treatment, Rhelaxer, PerpHecting Crème Normalizing Conditioner, Balance Hair Bath Neutralizing & Chelating Shampoo and MicroFusion Penetrating Conditioning Treatment. The 3-phase relaxer process offers the highest level of protection for hair with a scalp base, pre-treatment and normalizing conditioner that collectively minimize irritation, chemical damage and the shock of chemical treatment. The system first protects and pre-treats, then relaxes with dual neutralization, and finally penetrates with the post-treatment. mizani-usa.com —KELLEY DONAHUE
Here are a few new products on the market that provide a temporary solution for clients who'd like to tame their unruly locks.
1. HEMP HELPER Ideal for blow-outs, Alterna Hemp Straightening Balm is a weightless lotion that straightens both wavy and extremely curly hair with a light hold. 4alterna.com
2. HAIR ARMOR Barex Italiana Re-define Crème leave-in moisturizer creates a humidity-proof shield to ward off frizz and maintain sleek styles or define natural curls. oloffbeauty.com
3. SHINING STAR Containing sambucus extract, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, cucumber extract, vitamin E and natural UV blockers, Empower Rest Straightening Serum delivers smooth, shiny locks. beautyempowers.com
4. SMOOTH SAILING
MOP C-System C-Straight Smoothing Shine Lotion fights frizz with anti-humectant properties, which define and maintain straight styles, while also offering thermal protection. mopproducts.com
5. ON COARSE Power Straight straightening balm, part of Sexy Hair's revamped Straight Sexy Hair collection, smoothes thick, coarse hair and protects tresses from heat styling.
KIM VO ON THE GO
Vo's tips for how you can change a client's look without compromising her identity
Perhaps the reinvention craze started with ABC's Extreme Makeover, a show that's dramatically changed my life ever since I got the chance to work my magic on it as a colorist. But no matter the source, the transformation trend is causing women everywhere to reassess their appearance.
When a client sits down in your chair and requests a completely new persona, it's important to help her take an honest look at the difference between who she is and who she wants to become. Let's face it, if there's no correlation between the original woman and the one she hopes to become, her makeover won't cut it. Any alterations must be compatible with the forces of nature that she cannot change—skin tone, face shape and age.
Here's how to figure out who's who in the realm of skin tones:
Rose (warm): She has light-toned skin with pink or porcelain undertones, burns easily and seldom tans. Compatible haircolors include ruby-reds, cocoa-bean browns and champagne-blonds.
Yellow (cool): Her skin tone is light to medium with yellow or beige undertones, and she usually burns before tanning. Try light strawberry-blonds, caramel-browns or baby-blonds.
Olive (cool): She has medium-toned skin with a hint of green undertones, and she tans easily. Her coloring comes to life with chestnut-browns, hints of red and red hues with cooler notes.
Brown (warm): She's dark-skinned and sunburn isn't an issue. Her hair looks great in nearly any shade, but one of my favorites is toasted-pecan brown with hints of gold.
When it comes to face shape, there are five types:
Oval: Proportionate, with a narrow chin and high cheekbones. Considered the ideal, this shape lends itself to virtually any style, from ultra-short to glamorously long.
Oblong: Longer than it is wide, and narrow from forehead to chin. Bangs play down the length, and waves and curls add width.
Heart: Wide forehead, high cheekbones and a narrow chin. Bangs provide a softer look and long layers help round out the chin.
Round: Full, with no angles. Height on top lengthens the face and wispy ends conceal roundness.
Square: Broad forehead, wide cheekbones, jaw and chin. A layered cut or an updo softens the jawline.
Vo spiced up Micha Snodderly's hair with rich brown tones on a recent segment of Extreme Makeover.
As far as age is concerned, I define it by how old a woman looks, not how old she actually is. If she's 59 and looks 45, by all means, play that up for all it's worth. Finally, never forget to factor in lifestyle when making over any woman. No matter how gorgeous she looks when she leaves the salon, she won't be happy if she can't maintain the look at home. —E-mail Kim Vo at email@example.com.
Your clients can become blondes faster than ever with Roux Violites bleach, which utilizes a new technology to deliver up to seven levels of lightening power in a fraction of the time previously possible. The dust-free formula contains violet pigments that prevent yellowing and conditioning agents that help maintain hair's integrity. 800/933-4303;
TURN UP THE VOLUME
Summer may be over, but don't put away those sunglasses just yet. When Color Intensity, the new semi-permanent shade collection by Vero K-PAK from Joico, hits salons this fall, you're going to need them. The limited-edition crème colors, available in magenta, purple, blue and green, deliver intense, exceptionally vibrant, true-tone pigment color that lets you unleash your artistic potential. It's a must-have for color artists this season.
Colorists can prevent irritation and stains on their clients' hairlines, foreheads and necks that occur during processing with Blu Sand's new PRO Color Stain Barrier & Remover. This nongreasy formula can also be used as a post-color treatment to remove any stains that occur on clothing, salon towels and in the sink. The mild, pH-balanced formula contains aloe and is gentle enough to use on all skin types. blusand.com —N.P.
Get ready to indulge your brunette clients with Matrix's new Chocolate Cherry Collection. The 12 complementary SoColor and Color Sync shades—six brown-reds and six brown-coppers—are designed to work together to enhance your brunette clients with subtle red and copper hues that are just right for fall. matrix.com —C.W.