American Salon Staff
A half-dozen of the best new beauty products on the market this month.
TAKE BACK THE NIGHT
Night Brights, a new collection from fashion-forward OPI, turns on the sparkle with six exciting new shades, including Give Me the Moon, a silvery violet; Light My Sapphire, a deep, dark blue; and Golden Rules, a rich shimmery gold. The collection showcases two of the season's top fashion trends: dark nails and shiny metallics. opi.com
TURN BACK TIME
Amatokin is a controversial new stem cell-based cream from Voss Laboratories that will be available to salons and spas in the near future. Called the most important anti-aging breakthrough in years, it's the only topical compound shown to highlight the expression of stem cell markers in actual skin to reduce the signs of aging. amatokin.com
The new Helix 1875 Watt Lightweight Dryer from Hot Tools utilizes ionic and tourmaline technologies, which generate negative ions that enhance shine, reduce frizz and dry hair faster. Tourmaline also creates gentle but penetrating far-infrared heat, and the nanosilver-infused housing helps resist bacteria buildup. 800/480-8832
New from Keune, Blend Styling Products are meant to be mixed together to create different looks. The line includes De-Frizz for smooth, frizz-free hair; Clay, a dry controller with strong hold; Wax for shiny definition; Shape, a flexible texturizing cream; Paste, an intense texturizer; Gel for wet looks; and Shine for the ultimate polish. blendhair.com
Karg Perfect Styling Wax with shea butter adds shine and dimension, brightens color and is water-based, so it's not greasy. The product provides strong hold for short or long hairstyles. You can also use it when doing dry haircutting, like Mike Karg does. The fresh scent will appeal to both men and women. 800/942-7676
Curl Force 17 texturizing spray-gel, new from Redken, produces defined, long-lasting, shiny curls in medium to coarse hair. Redken's Exclusive Bonding System utilizes beeswax and humidity-resistant agents for added texture and frizz-free control. Apply in the morning on damp hair to activate curls, then later in the day to refresh the look. redken.com
To Have And To Hold
Hairspray isn't synonymous with helmet head anymore. Just look at what's on the market.
Aerosol spray cans were developed by the U.S. Army during World War II to spray insecticides on malaria-carrying bugs, but the invention also paved the way for the development of hairspray, which entered the styling scene in the late 1940s. Because of environmental concerns in the 1980s and '90s—it was feared that compounds evaporating into the atmosphere were depleting the ozone layer—the Environmental Protection Agency began to evaluate aerosol sprays and recommend changes in their composition. By reducing the alcohol content—which was typically 90 to 95 percent—and increasing the water content, many companies were able to meet the lower, 55 percent volatile organic compound (VOC) content regulation. Today, a new environmentally friendlier generation of hairsprays provides something for everyone. "Like any other styler, consumers look for something that suits them," says David Cannell, former senior vice president of research and development for Redken. "Hairsprays try to fill all of the niches that exist within a multitude of hairstyles." Whether you're looking for a hairspray that provides UV protection, tames flyaways or adds shine, you're sure to find one here that suits you and your clients' needs. —ANDREA ADAME
Rodney Cutler takes aim at Maticevski during Olympus Fashion Week in New York.
Abba Zeroscent is a firm-hold spray that provides long-lasting style for your clients' hair. The unscented, humidity-resistant formula conditions hair and adds a natural luster to each strand. abbahaircare.com
Alterna Caviar Working Hair Spray protects hair against environmental and thermal damage, while minimizing signs of aging. The flexible-hold spray contains an age-control complex to restore vibrancy to dull, dry tresses. 4alterna.com
Aveda Air Control is a water-free aerosol that helps create a light, workable hold. Designed for all hair types, the low-VOC formula contains pine, certified-organic flaxseed and jojoba to hold and condition hair. aveda.com
Barex Italiana Gloss Hairspray provides weightless shine for holding, layering and flat-ironing hair. Lifeless hair gets hydrated and lifted with this long-lasting, volumizing spray. oloffbeauty.com
BioSilk Finish is a fast-drying aerosol that contains silk proteins, so you can curl or flat-iron clients' hair without any sticking or flaking. The natural-hold finishing spray keeps hair in place all day and provides long-lasting shine. biosilk.com
Fudge Unleaded Skyscraper Medium Hold Aerosol Spray can finish off any hairstyle. Spray the melon-scented formula on all hair types to deliver shine and hold that's easy to brush or wash out. fudge.com
Goldwell Wild Modeler Shaping Spray shapes and molds hair, creating a defined look for each client. Containing elastomer, bamboo protein and styling polymers, the shaping spray provides strong, durable hold without the stiff, sticky-hair feeling. The fine mist adds a finishing shine. goldwellusa.com
Hempz Firm Hold Shaping Spray is infused with pure hemp seed oil and extract, proteins and silicones to enhance hair's natural shine and protect it from UV damage. The mist allows styling flexibility and prevents color from fading. hempzhaircare.com
ISO Daily Shape Working Spray won't let your clients' hair down. The flexible hairspray performs well on both damp and dry hair. Spritz it on damp hair for shaping and styling or on dry hair for shine and flexible hold. Help your clients fight the effects of humidity with this spray. isohair.com
J Beverly Hills Perfect Hold Finishing Strong Hold Spray gives hairdos staying power without buildup, flaking or stiffness. Infused with a blend of botanicals, holding resins and proteins, the spray can be used on wet or dry hair. jbeverlyhills.com
Joico JoiMist Firm Finishing Spray delivers a humidity-resistant final touch to your clients' hair. The aerosol spray provides maximum hold that supports hair all day while protecting against UV damage. Perfect for updos, this spray targets frizz and flyaways to keep hair smooth and in place. joico.com
L'Anza Art Elements Total Recall Strong Hold Memory Mist is perfect for any kind of 'do. The versatile mist can add volume, create a spiky all-night updo or produce a frizz-free style. For all-day body, spray it on damp hair and dry into the desired shape.
Lisap Lisynet One Hairspray provides manageability and enhances shine. The fast-drying, flexible-hold spray molds damp hair and preserves dry, finished styles. The versatile spray delivers maximum shine and won't leave hair flaky or sticky.
Matrix Vavoom Extra-Full Freezing Spray offers a layering workability so you can lift, volumize and lock in texture to your clients' hair. UV filters protect against sun damage in this long-lasting, water-free aerosol spray. matrix.com
MOP C-System Firm Finish Strong Hold Hair Spray delivers a dry application with lasting hold. The eco-friendly aerosol includes nourishing orange, mango and grapefruit extracts and a UV shield to preserve haircolor. An even mist allows for a perfect finish. mopproducts.com
Nexxus Phyto Organics Natural Flexible Hold Memory Spray provides natural hold for all hair types. Fullness and shine are restored with the working mist, which contains UV and thermal protectants to prevent damage from heat-styling tools and the sun. nexxus.com
Paul Mitchell Extra-Body Firm Finishing Spray helps your clients pump it up—the volume, that is. The intense-hold formula fights flatness and frizz and gives lifeless hair flexibility and bounce. Thickening ingredients leave hair textured and shiny, even in humidity. paulmitchell.com
Nioxin Volumizing Reflectives Niospray Extra Hold is perfect for styling with definition and control. The humidity-resistant spray volumizes and enhances shine and maintains hairstyles in any kind of weather. The gentle formula won't dry the hair or scalp. nioxin.com
Phyto Phytolaque Hair Spray won't dehydrate hair or make it oily. Infused with botanicals, the nonaerosol, medium-hold spray is perfect for keeping hair in place—even during hot, humid days. The spray contains lacquer gum for a weightless hold and olive oil to protect hair from damage. phyto.com
Pravana Super Shape Hair Spray is a brushable mist that allows you to build texture and control the hair during styling. The low-VOC formula provides detail and overall hold to any style. The spray is completely water-soluble and won't flake or leave build-up.
Profound Beauty Details Working Spray helps you build a style, finish it or do both. The lightweight formula gives a firm yet flexible and touchable hold to all styles and hair types. The micro-fine spray allows for precise application from roots to ends. profoundbeauty.com
PureOlogy Take Hold Flexible Hold Hairspray dispenses an even application to provide all-over natural, luminous shine. The ultra-fine mist contains a unique AntiFade Complex to maximize color retention and Nano Technology to help smooth and strengthen even the dullest of tresses. pureology.com
Redken Workforce 09 Flexible Volumizing Spray eliminates frizz sans flaking or residue. The fast-drying formula can be applied in layers to build a style that will last all day and all night. The water-free formula dries quickly and won't weigh hair down. redken.com
Scruples High Definition Firm Shaping Spray creates lift, volume and styling control and rinses easily from hair. Use a light spray of this shaping formula for the final touch on dry or wet styles. The extra-dry spray can be applied liberally for a freeze-hold finish. scrupleshaircare.com
Sebastian Shaper Plus Touchable Extra Hold Hairspray resists humidity to keep your clients' hair perfectly styled all day. The spray shapes and controls hair before or after a blow-dry and supports the style in any weather. The spray is easy to brush through and wash out. sebastian-intl.com
Sexy Hair Strong Hold Hairspray dries quickly to give hair a luminous shine. Perfect for updos, this sweet-smelling formula reduces frizz and flyaways and provides long-lasting hold on any hairstyle. No unruly hair, flakes, build-up or stiff, tacky tresses with this spray. sexyhair.com
Smart Solutions Flexible Holding Spray helps keep your clients hair in place without stiffness. The weightless formula contains plant extracts to preserve haircolor and add a light fragrance to the hair. Easy to wash out, the no-flake spray is perfect for styling. dennisbernard.com
TIGI Bed Head Masterpiece Massive Shine Hairspray locks in high shine on any hair type. Style clients' hair with this tropical-scented working spray that provides maximum hold without the stiff, sticky feeling. The eco-friendly formula can be sprayed in layers for desired shine. tigihaircare.com
Vitale Pro Silken Hold Spritz provides a light hold and radiant shine for any hairdo. An herbal blend prevents hair from flaking or becoming sticky, so hair looks naturally perfect. Fans of spiral curls, bobs, updos and Mohawks will love this spray. vitalepro.com
Wella Color Preserve Long-Lasting Hairspray protects hair against harmful UV rays with UV filters and provitamin B5. The strong-hold spray keeps hair in place while locking in luscious, luminous color for the perfect finish. Fading doesn't stand a chance. wellausa.com
TURN BACK TIME
Haircare manufacturers seem to have discovered the fountain of youth, creating products that help the hair maintain its youthful splendor.
People often fret over the first creases around their eyes or the first furrows on their forehead. But just like skin, hair also ages, and with 24 million baby boomers now over the age of 50, you probably have more clients than ever whose hair is showing the signs.
Hair, just like skin, should be protected from the sun in order to maintain its youthfulness.
And just what are the signs? Although people tend to associate aging hair with graying hair, other signs tend to manifest themselves even before graying occurs. According to Marion Johnson, Alterna's vice president of marketing, brittleness and loss of radiance, strength and elasticity are common symptoms. "Hair may become difficult to manage or style and may start displaying an uneven texture," she says. "Loss of volume can also become an issue."
Most people start to notice the signs between the ages of 35 and 40, says Christyn Nawrot, national training director for Phyto, which recently launched a new anti-aging haircare system called Phytodensium. Nawrot explains that the hormone that causes our hair follicles to go through regenerative cycles becomes elevated as we get older, which stifles the hair follicles, leading to thinning, fragile hair. "Lack of sleep, a poor diet and stress can accelerate the problem by causing the body to produce more of that hormone," Nawrot adds.
But lifestyle contributors aside, some people are genetically predisposed to thinning hair and have their parents to thank. Environmental factors, such as sun exposure and pollution, as well as chemical services and thermal styling, can exacerbate the problem and cause signs to appear early. Those with fine hair will notice the changes more quickly.
Fortunately, your baby-boomer clients don't have to resign themselves to lackluster locks. Manufacturers are creating haircare lines designed to reverse—not just mask—the toll aging takes on hair. These products are different from volumizing products, which add body without addressing problems like brittleness and dullness that develop as hair ages. "You want to look for ingredients that restore elasticity and strength, refine texture and replenish moisture," Johnson says.
In addition to anti-aging haircare products, a healthy lifestyle, including a balanced diet, exercise and stress maintenance, help to keep hair healthy.
Interestingly, many of the ingredients found in anti-aging haircare are the same as those found in anti-aging skincare. Alterna's Caviar Age Control Complex contains vitamin C, omega-3 fatty acids, rhodiola extract and marine botanicals, while PureOlogy infuses its NanoWorks line with an Anti-Age Complex consisting of green tea, apple, wine and citrus extracts. Nexxus' Y Serum is made up of antioxidants, green tea and a rare type of mushroom that is chock-full of amino acids. L'Anza's CP Anti-Aging line uses peptides, hyaluronic acid and white tea to restore youthfulness.
"Healthy hair starts at the root, so just as we care for the skin on our face, we need to care for the skin on our scalp," Nawrot says. Phyto's new Phytodensium line is formulated to do exactly that. The shampoo and serum contain sugar alcohols derived from oat bran and yogurt to keep bacteria and free radicals from adhering to the hair and scalp. "People tend to forget that the skin on our scalp suffers the same stresses and is as susceptible to aging as the skin on our face," Nawrot adds.
Aging hair may also lose its shine and may not hold color as well as it once did. "Whether you color your hair or have virgin hair, always choose a haircare product that provides UVA/UVB protection to safeguard hair and keep color from fading," Johnson says.
While protecting hair from the sun may indeed help mitigate the effects aging has on hair, your clients can make additional lifestyle adjustments that will also prove beneficial. For example, Nawrot recommends washing the hair at least once a week with a clarifying shampoo to keep styling products from clogging the hair's follicles, which can hasten the rate of thinning. What's more, since circulation slows down as we age, a regular scalp massage becomes ever more important for maintaining healthy, strong hair because it helps ensure that important nutrients are being delivered to your scalp via the bloodstream. Exercise is beneficial since it stimulates blood flow, as are a well-balanced diet, rest and stress-maintenance.
Clients will undoubtably appreciate your advice on the ways a healthful lifestyle combined with an anti-aging haircare regimen can help keep their hair looking its best, long into their golden years, no needles required. In the box below, check out some of the groundbreaking anti-aging products that you can recommend. —CARRIE WATSON
ALTERNA's Anti-Aging Caviar collection was the first line to bill itself as anti-aging. Seasilk, a recently added ingredient that made a name for itself in skincare, is made of marine botanicals that nourish hair while increasing follicle hydration to refine hair's texture and appearance. 4alterna.com
NEXXUS Y Serum Younger Looking Hair collection contains mushroom, green tea, arginine and meadowfoam extract to restore hair. Antioxidants and amino acids protect the crucial protein framework while UVA/UVB protectors guard against the damaging effects of exposure to the sun's rays. nexxus.com
PHYTO's new Phytodensium Shampoo and Serum contain the Gatuline Age-Defense technology to protect against free radicals. Black currant seed oil, rich in fatty acids, helps regenerate hair. Birch and horsetail leaf extracts restore minerals and a protein complex increases strength and elasticity. phyto.com
The Anti-Age Complex in PUREOLOGY's NanoWorks Shampoo and Conditioner contains green tea, citrus and wine extracts, vegetable proteins and silicones to provide a youthful look and feel, boost hair strength, infuse moisture, and intensify shine and color. Mushrooms guard against inflammation. pureology.com
P2 Age De Phy Shampoo and Conditioner from Philip Pelusi is a moisturizing system that rejuvenates and strengthens hair while restoring body and shine. Pumpkin enzymes and a Multi-Fruit Acid complex keep hair follicles in top health. Fennel seed antioxidants protect color and soy protein adds strength. philippelusi.com
The Ageless collection from FRéDéRIC FEKKAI is a three-step haircare regimen designed to correct the first signs of aging while protecting hair from daily stressors that accelerate it. The formulas contain amino acids, orchid extract and pearl protein. fredericfekkai.com
MAD ABOUT HUE
KIM VO ON THE GO
Vo details about the "don'ts" for summer 'dos.
As the weather heats up and clients begin seriously thinking about a new look, the time is ripe to address some of the season's "don'ts."
To start, certain haircolors should be strictly avoided during summer months. Take, for instance, bright red shades. At the risk of sounding like a wanna-be chemist, the red molecule is smaller than most, so it falls out of the hair more quickly than other shades do. Add rays from the sun that are steeply angled and high in the sky, toss a convertible into the mix and you've got a recipe for a bleached-out redhead.
Likewise, ash tones should be set aside until autumn rolls around. The sun tends to bleach ash shades to corn yellow and lima-bean green, so unless your client has a strong desire to look like she's wearing a bowl of succotash on her head, steer clear.
When the heat is on, remember that lowlights are the ultimate hair prescription. Brunettes are well-served by adding lowlights one shade deeper than their natural color. In essence, the natural shade then becomes the highlight, mimicking a sun-kissed effect and adding depth. And since blond hair tends to fade at the ends, lowlights can break up the monotony and impart richer color. Whatever you do, say no to clients requesting a color change in the middle of summer. By the time the oxidation process kicks in, you're approaching another season change. Focus on any dramatic changes at the start of a new season.
Speaking of change, many clients long to go super short in the summer, but I suggest saying no to this, too. When you cut off significant length, the naturally oxidized highlights get hacked off as well. The result is a flat color—not particularly flattering to anyone—and it will take at least three months to get the natural highlights back. Think of it as the difference between new, dark denim and a pair of jeans that have faded to a soft, worn look. It's all about dimension.
Finally, remember that when heat and humidity rise, clients tend to shampoo more often, which can strip color even faster. I often suggest that my clients rinse their hair instead of washing it every day, reconditioning just the ends. If the hair type and style can handle it, I recommend air-drying instead of blow-drying to further protect color. And as an added precaution, I always advise clients who spend time outdoors to apply a hair product with a UV protector before leaving the house. Wella System Professional Sunshine Cream Spray, Paul Mitchell Quick Slip Styling Cream and Joico Sun Therapy Protective Sun Milk are good ones to try. —E-mail Kim Vo at email@example.com.
Whip it up
Gone are the days of messy hand-mixing and breathing in fumes. With PRODUCT CLUB's new ColorWhip, you just measure out the formula (or formulas), put the top on and press the button. It even allows you to choose from either 45-, 60- or 75-second mixing cycles. ColorWhip comes with one mixer, four bowls and five brushes. 800/308-3588; productclub.com —N.P.
Protecting clients' skin from haircolor stains and chemical irritation is fast and easy with the Repelle
Professional Skin Shield Wand. The product contains pretectin-22, a derivative of rapeseed oil that ionically repels positively-charged haircolor dyes, as well as moisturizing shea butter, antioxidant vitamin E and healing aloe. 877/99-REPELLE; repelleprotection.com
Barex Italiana's new Colourlife Masque makes it easy to care for color-treated hair during bright summer days. The weightless, heat-activated treatment is infused with antioxidants and UV filters to protect your clients' color, hydration and shine. Sunflower derivatives and vitamin E provide superior conditioning for hair fibers and roots. oloffbeauty.com —A.A.
Safe From the Sun
Color whiz Jon Patrick is always slammed in summer, when clients with sun-damaged strands come calling. Here the color whiz shares a few tips for avoiding sun damage that you can share with your clients.
1. Once hair is color-treated, don't try to lighten it any more with the sun. Use a leave-in conditioner with SPF and wear a hat.
2. Chlorine and salt stay active in hair, so make sure to rinse thoroughly and immediately after swimming.
3. Wash hair in the evenings. That helps remove the day's accumulation of dirt and allows the natural oils to return overnight. If hair is oily in the morning, rinse with water. —C.W.