Every stylist knows that adding bangs to a hairstyle can detract from, camouflage, or emphasize facial features, while awakening the shape of a cut and making it more interesting.
But that doesn't mean everyone can (or should) wear a fringe. The legendary educator and entrepreneur Sam Villa has a lot to say about bangs, starting with: who should get them?
Only those who can handle the maintenance can handle a fringe, says Villa, the co-founder and chief creative officer of Sam Villa and global artistic ambassador for Redken.
“That's so critical, because every day you need to refresh a fringe," Villa says. "Whether we’re talking side-swept, horizontal, or a short blunt fringe, at some point bangs will need to be refreshed."
Then, it's time to decide what bang style would be best. Here is Sam's process for determining the ultimate fringe for every client.
5 Steps to Deciding a Client's Best Bangs
- Determine the focal point of the face: is it the upper third (for example, the eyes), the middle third (for example, the cheekbones), or the lower third (for example, the lips)?
- Choose what facial features you want to emphasize, detract from, and/ or camouflage.
- Determine how you want the eye to travel across the face: horizontally, diagonally, or vertically? That will help you figure out what orientation is best: blunt horizontal bangs, or a fringe parted either on the side or in the middle. It will also help you decide the length, density, and texture of the bangs.
- Decide how far back on the crown you want to take the fringe. A well-placed starting point can effectively camouflage receding areas, or detract from a short or long forehead.
- Figure out the tools and techniques you'll need to achieve the client's best bangs. What size comb will you want to hold sections for more or less tension? What shears or razors will create the texture and density you want?
What's Next in Fringe Trends?
Villa is seeing bangs taking a turn from middle parts falling vertically, to side-sweeping fringe styled with more height. Villa calls them “side-saddle fringes” with a pop.
“Parts have been centered for a while, so the natural progression is for them to move to the side and infused with more volume to pop up a bit."
Sam's Top 3 Tips for Cutting Bangs
- Always cut fringe dry to better read the length and where the hair will fall.
- Because many clients get nervous watching you cut their bangs, ask them to close their eyes during the process "to keep the hair out of them." It dissipates the emotion for you both.
- When teaching a client how to style their fringe, have them film the process in the salon — both you styling them, then having the client do it — so they have a tutorial to refer to at home.
Check out Sam Villa's extended tutorial for bang styles below!