Everyone loves a makeover. But on most days, completely transforming a client within a small amount of time seems like a tall order—especially when the client shows you reference photos of celebrities and Instagram stars with crazy complex color. We all know that deep dimensional color—with medium and low-lights galore—takes both precision and time. And don’t forget, they may be starting with the remainder of a single process color. So how can you work smarter, not harder, giving your client the transformation she craves?
In today's how-to video, L’Oréal Professionnel artist Ashley Richter (@ashley.richter) is going to show us a hair-painting technique that nets big results. It’s quick, effective and a constant client pleaser.
Get The Look:
Shannon (top right photo, process shown in video)
- Base/global retouch: 3:4 of L’Oréal Professionnel Demi Permanent Dia Richesse 7.43 with 1:4 of 6.45 and mixed with 15 volume.
- Medium: 3:4 of L’Oréal Sun-kissed Oil with 1:4 of L'Oréal Professionnel Demi Permanent Dia Richesse 7.40 with 25 volume. To adjust: change from L’Oréal’s Maje Crème Developer to L’Oréal’s Nutra Developer.
- Dark: L’Oréal Professionnel Demi Permanent Dia Richesse 3:4 of 7.43 mixed with 1:4 of 7.40 with 15 volume.
- Light: L’Oréal Lightening powder mixed with 40 volume.
- Gloss: 1:2 clear with 1:4 of 7.43 and 1:4 7.40 mixed with 15 volume.
Paige (top left photo)
- Base/global retouch: L’Oréal Professionnel Demi Permanent Dia Richesse 6.32 mixed with 6 volume.
- Medium: 3:4 of L’Oréal Sun-kissed Oil with 1:4 of L'Oréal Professionnel Demi Permanent Dia Richesse 9.02 mixed with 30 volume.
- Dark: L’Oréal Professionnel Demi Permanent Dia Richesse 6.32 mixed with 15 volume.
- Light: Platinum Plus mixed with 40 volume.
- To start, apply a global retouch using a demi permanent color. Apply more color than you normally would, as the product will need to be able to be pulled through to create smooth transitions later.
- Next, pre-plan out the lightest pieces. Look at what the key areas are (around the face, underneath near the nape- following styling trends of having hair placed in-front of shoulders and down the parting in a zigzag pattern).
- Draw in a triangle at the front to separate hair and wrap/curl the hair around your finger (avoiding twisting down into the base color to keep brightness). Take the curl off your finger as you would when removing from a curling iron and wrap with foil to protect from your medium and light color applications.
- Continue around your key areas, making pieces larger for courser hair and thinner for finer.
- Work on diagonal sections and apply your medium and dark to the remaining hair left outside the foil. Use your planchet as an application tool, painting your dark onto it, and then using the back of your hand for the medium in order to be more time efficient. Make sure to transition your medium and darks by pulling through some of your base color.
- While working, make sure the hair is smooth and tangle free, as Richter believes the prettiness of the application determines the end result.
- To finish, start removing the foils from your saved light pieces and begin painting them. Switch gloves to avoid transferring color, and use your eye to do your free hand lightening which will be added from the mid-shafts down, and fused with the adjusted formula of Sun Kissed Oil where the lightener meets the base color.