How To Master Curly Layers

Curly hair is bigger and better than ever, and according to Matt Beck (@freesaloneducation), it’s at its best when cut with layers. “You can see how it falls kind of flat, starts to expand out and gets that Christmas tree kind of look to it. So, what you want to do is build in a nice buildup of weight and accentuate the cheekbones,” Beck says. Check out his video below on cutting a layered head of curly hair.  

Steps: 

  1. Dampen the hair and brush through with a wide tooth comb. 

  1. Start with a left hand side parting and curve it down right down the center in the back. Then part from the occipital bone to behind the ear to create the first section.  

  1. Cut a straight across base line on the bottom, using your fingers as a guide with no elevation. Cut a clean, hard line making sure the hair looks healthy but still long. Do the same for the whole head. 

  1. Once you’re done cutting, clip the top of the heavy side up. Use a diffuser on medium airflow high heat on the underneath section of the heavy side. To prevent frizz, hold the diffuser comb still and up against the head until the section is at least 85 percent dry. Movement will cause frizz.  

  1. Once the hair is dry, start with concave layering on the lighter side of the part. Stand behind the head and push each vertical section towards the face. The over-direction will build the weight towards the back. Really elevate the sections and twist your hand up to get the steep layers. Stop cutting the vertical sections right behind the ear.  

  1. On the other side, clip away the top section where the hair is heaviest. Repeat the same technique on the underneath section of the heavy side.  

  1. In the back, do the same concave layering technique without pushing everything forward. Cut rounded layers instead, following the round of the head, all the way around the back section.  

  1. Move to the top section, so the weight will be pushing back off the face. Cut a rounded shape and a long side bang in to the hair using a point cutting technique in diagonal forward sections over-directing it over the part.  

  1. After cutting, spray with a little water again and diffuse a little bit more. Define the curls with a lightweight wax product, spinning each curl with your fingers. Finish with a finishing spray.  

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