Root Drop Formulas and Techniques

(Root drop formula)

Move over blonde—there is a new color in town! Rooted Blonde/Bronde is taking over and I am beyond excited to start seeing soft, subtle warmth and richer tones. I feel it looks amazing on everyone and doesn’t totally say goodbye to blonde—it meets somewhere in the middle. So hang with me while I go through a few of my secrets behind my signature Root Drop and Blonding/Bronding service!

Consultation

So your blonde client doesn’t really know what she wants to do with her hair. Winter is approaching and you get the feeling that she wants to try something new, but at the same time she’s not fully committed or asking for anything too different. Here's the magic solution: Suggest to softly drop her root down, keeping her face frame bright. They say yes almost every time!

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THE DO'S & DON'TS

DO use a demi-permanent glaze. It has a great consistency for melting. I like to use Redken Shades EQ Gloss. Demi-permanent is a beautiful translucent color. It will reflect the highlights underneath and avoid an opaque result.

DON'T use permanent color for the root drop. If your client has gray, I suggest doing a root retouch service with permanent color. Shampoo and apply root drop in the bowl or at the chair.

BONUS TIP: Schwarzkopf Professional has a 10 minute 100% gray coverage color line. It is a complete game-changer for me and I utilize the time-saving product every day. You will be obsessed!

DO discuss with your client whether she wants to match her natural regrowth, or if she is willing to go a few shades darker. I will often ask my client if they would rather err on the side of light or dark. This is always my safety net. Since we are doing a demi-permanent it will fade with each wash. I will typically do a root drop two to three shades darker than their natural.

DON'T be afraid to go a little bit darker. I am a huge fan of mixing levels. For example, on a natural Level 7, my formula will consist of mostly a Level 5. If I’m wanting a little more depth I will add a little tiny bit of 3 or 4 in.

DO take them to the bowl and shampoo prior to the root drop service. I feel you really get the best blend when the hair is wet. If the hair is dry it can sometimes be a little too opaque and you can sometimes get spotting.

DON'T worry if it looks “too" dark after you have applied the root drop. Especially with Shades EQ, it will always appear two to three levels darker when wet.

Formulas

The Boujee Blonde Drop

Current color: Blondes 7/8 

Zone 1  Root drop: 06NB+07NW+07VB splash of 05N

Zone 2/3  09NB+08Gi+09V+cap of half cap of 09RB (to add balance)

 

The Rich Bronde Drop

Zone 1  Formula #1 Shades EQ 05NW+ 06N+ cap of 04NB

Zone 2  Formula #2 Shades EQ 07NW+08Gi+08V+ half cap 09RB

Application

Decide how much face frame you want to leave out. From that point, section diagonal back to the top of the ear. Push her forward—this will be our face frame section .

Zone 1

Over wet hair, apply Formula 1 to nape. Take horizontal sections, applying the root drop color down to desired area. I like to take it down about 3 inches or so. Move up the head, taking horizontal sections, slightly arching through the crown, so keep with the curve of the head. As you get closer to the front you can drop 2 inches and decrease the root as you move toward the front. In the face frame, softly drop through just where the existing blonde demarcation is. This will soften the front hairline but also keep it nice and bright and higher than the rest of the hair.

Zone 2/3

Apply Formula 2. Processing time will be determined on your desired result but I like to leave for 10 to 15 minutes minimum.

So there you go! Some fun new ideas to inspire you on your bronde journey, including some good easy go-to formulas for you to play with. Feel free to adjust the formulas as needed so they work with your client's current color and desired look. Have fun, and if you have any questions please reach out!

Tag me @BlondeByNoon — I would love to see your best brondes or answer any questions.

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