When Goldwell launched their @Elumenated Red collection, Stacey Smoker, (@stacey_smoker) Goldwell U.S. Master Stylist, got a bad case of “scarlet fever”—obsessing over shades of red, magenta, pink, crimson and cherry. “I was so inspired by the colors, I knew I had to build a collection around them,” says Smoker. Because of the bold fashion shades she was creating, Smoker named her collection Fauv Inclusion—alluding to Fauvism artists who favored strong color over realistic hues. Smoker also made a concerted effort to embrace diversity in her collection. “I wanted a collection that showed my ability to work with any hair texture. In the salon my clientele is extremely diverse, and it was high time my professional portfolio reflected that. Beauty is everywhere, you just have to open your eyes.”
Soleil Rouge (top)
This sunset-red look was a creative pairing of bold color and intricate texture. “After prelightening the hair, I mixed 40 ml Goldwell Colorance Lotion with 20 ml of @Elumenated Red [email protected] and alternated that formula with 40 ml Goldwell Colorance Lotion 7 ml [email protected] + 13 ml Clear in back to back slices,” says Smoker. For the style, she sectioned off a front fringe and made a bun incorporating three different textured braids—crimped, half crimped and smooth.
Texture and color don’t always play well together. “It’s easy to make color look good when the light bounces off a solid, glossy surface, but texture diffuses light, making color choice crucial.” Here, Smoker took her model’s natural level 4 hair and created a one-inch accent slice. First, she prelightened the hair. Then, “in the stripe I used Goldwell Topchic Effects Color RV with 9 percent. I then isolated the accent stripe with Product Club Mesh Papers and applied Goldwell Colorance Lotion + [email protected] + 1 ml VV mix to the rest of the head.” To finish the look off—and make the stripe pop—Smoker sprayed Goldwell Style Sign Diamond Gloss Shine Spray only on the accent slice.
Pretty in Pink
Smoker created this pastel perfection by harmonizing warm and cool shades. “The use of traditionally conflicting tones creates a really lovely conversation on the palate,” says Smoker. Here she pre-lightened the hair then used a balayage application technique, leaving out some of the model’s natural root color. “I used Goldwell Colorance Lotion with [email protected] and painted that down the hair shaft from her root break approximately two and a half inches. I then did an @Elumen overlay on the entire head using 30 ml [email protected] + 20 ml [email protected] + 2 ml [email protected] from roots to two inches below the [email protected] line of demarcation. I then applied 25 ml [email protected] + 25 ml Clear + .05 ml [email protected] on the mid-length to ends.”
Photographer: Andrea Urbinati/SoAM Studios
Lead Hair: Stacey Smoker
Makeup: Ashley Ann Capone/Beauty Marks NYC
Wardrobe: Kyndall Minley-Marshall, Stacey Smoker
Hair Assistant: Matthew Bevan