Steve Rowbottom's Men's Collection: Structure

Sometimes, it’s the simplest things that work best. That’s what Steve Rowbottom, creative director at the award-winning Westrow hairdressing group, learned during his impromptu Structure photo shoot. “This collection came about purely by accident. We were supposed to take just one shot, but on the spur of the moment, we kept producing more looks,” says Rowbottom. To style the hair, Rowbottom went back to basics—basic geometric shapes. “We used a classic, vertical graduation method through the back and sides. Weight was built up through the top and then blended in from the crown. The result was a really square shape that could be dressed and redefined in different ways.” Keeping the “geometric” theme in mind, Rowbottom choose classic coats with strong lines and defined forms. And, the use of natural light gave the hair and wardrobe a more dramatic effect, creating strong shadows and sharp lighting contrasts.

 
To give the original square shape texture, Rowbottom used freehand cutting at the root. This light cutting technique reduced excess weight, giving the shape life. “I simply inserted the scissors in the same direction the hair was traveling, then gently skimmed at the root area,” says Rowbottom.
 
To give the original square shape texture, Rowbottom used freehand cutting at the root. This light cutting technique reduced excess weight, giving the shape life. “I simply inserted the scissors in the same direction the hair was traveling, then gently skimmed at the root area,” says Rowbottom.
 
Reforming the hair shape requires pliable products. Rowbottom’s top reshaping tip: Add a little detangling conditioner to your water spray bottle. “It works as a cutting agent, giving hair lots of shine and control, without letting the hair dry out during the shoot,” says Rowbottom.
 
Reforming the hair shape requires pliable products. Rowbottom’s top reshaping tip: Add a little detangling conditioner to your water spray bottle. “It works as a cutting agent, giving hair lots of shine and control, without letting the hair dry out during the shoot,” says Rowbottom.
 
When Rowbottom wanted to create more density in the hair, he ingeniously redistributed non-soluble wax, Sexy Hair Control Maniac, throughout the whole head. First, he applied the wax on dry hair. “Then we rinsed the hair with cool water, creating a rubbery texture,” says Rowbottom. “Afterwards, I used my hands to manipulate the original geometric shape and increase volume.”
 
When Rowbottom wanted to create more density in the hair, he ingeniously redistributed non-soluble wax, Sexy Hair Control Maniac, throughout the whole head. First, he applied the wax on dry hair. “Then we rinsed the hair with cool water, creating a rubbery texture,” says Rowbottom. “Afterwards, I used my hands to manipulate the original geometric shape and increase volume.”
 
By only building volume on the top of the head, Rowbottom completely redefines the original square shape perimeter. “If you want to produce more than one look, be methodical, have an idea in mind and plan your shapes, building up the use of products,” says Rowbottom.
 
By only building volume on the top of the head, Rowbottom completely redefines the original square shape perimeter. “If you want to produce more than one look, be methodical, have an idea in mind and plan your shapes, building up the use of products,” says Rowbottom.

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