When it comes right down to it, the clients I see in London are a lot like yours: They definitely covet a trendy style as long as they can still keep their hair long. Fortunately, this latest look from my new Fusion collection really fits the bill. The sexy design, which features a strong outline shape with asymmetry, can be styled straight and flat, coaxed into loose, textured curls or set on Velcro rollers to create big '80s hair. Here's how to get the look.
1. Create a radial section from ear to ear, dividing the front and back, and a vertical section from the crown to the nape, then create a diagonal back section on both sides to form a curved section and cut the center baseline. This enables you to see the length at the sides when cutting the baseline.
2. Establish the angle of the baseline by cutting a slightly concave line, working out toward the ears up to the crown area.
3. After making a side parting in the hair, use diagonal-forward sectioning to blend the baseline from the ear. Continue cutting the concave angle, gaining length as you move forward. Work up to the side parting in the same way, continuing the concave line moving forward. Repeat on the other side.
This trendy style is turning heads in London.
4. Next, create a diagonal section that moves back and stops at the ear and another on the opposite side, from the side parting to behind the ear. Cut the shortest part of the fringe over the eye before holding the hair in the natural fall and cutting a blunt baseline. Before working back to the ear, cut a short diagonal-angled base line cutting in the natural fall to retain a heavy baseline.
5. Using the fringe as a guideline, over-direct the hair across the face and cut a steep graduation into the front to begin forming the asymmetric shape.
6. Create a diagonal back section, then comb the hair forward at 45 degrees and cut a separate graduation baseline, leaving the underneath baseline as a disconnection. Cut the forward graduation from the parting downwards to blend with the length at the sides. Continue on the other side, using the primary guide and over-directing the hair to achieve asymmetric graduation. Blend the side lengths.
7. Create the layering pattern by taking a section from the crown to the center nape, cutting perimeter layers by holding the hair at 90 degrees from the parting. Work from the baseline to the crown to form the first guide section.
8. Using triangular sectioning and pivoting around the center crown, continue cutting perimeter layers. As you work toward the ears, over- direct the hair toward the center to retain longer lengths at the sides. Repeat the step on the other side.
9. Blend the perimeter layers to the sides by over-directing vertical sections back to retain length at the front. Repeat on the other side.
10. After cutting a small section of hair in the crown to use as a guide, blend block layers throughout the back of the hair, working from the center panel and taking sections to behind the ears.
11. Blend front layers, taking vertical sections and over-directing the hair back toward the ears to retain extra length. Repeat on both sides; then finish with point cutting to soften texture.