Fall for Color

With the summer months now gone, it's time to leave bleached and faded haircolor on the beach. The look for fall is warmer, more customized colors that promote shine and depth.

Rich hues and subtle highlights from U.K. salon Royston Blythe
Rich hues and subtle highlights from U.K. salon Royston Blythe

"I love this time of year because I get to take over-highlighted blondes down to richer tones," says Lisa Grealish of Patrick McIvor Color Studio in Bethlehem, PA. Grealish favors a fall palette of golden apricot, caramels and warm reds that blends naturally without giving a striped appearance. She also points to high shine as a major trend of the season. "Last year, the look was matte," she explains. "This fall, shine is a major factor, especially on dark hair." Grealish recommends using a clear glaze after coloring to give the hair a sleek finish and make natural highlights pop for a multitonal look.

Another interesting technique Grealish is seeing for fall is peekaboo color. "I like to add bold pieces of red to peek out from under a hairstyle, like the longer pieces under a bob," she says. She also does highlights underneath a ponytail so that the color appears to be "melting out." According to Grealish, this is achieved by back-combing the hair, and it looks especially nice on brunettes and blondes.

Renowned colorist Jet Rhys, co-founder of Jet Rhys Salon in San Diego, found inspiration from a different kind of melting. For her, fall hair is like a box of chocolates. "I got the idea at See's Candies," she recalls. "I was looking at the counter of different chocolates, and it got my wheels going." Rhys began experimenting with mixing colors from different color families and discovered a style that's both beautiful and unique. "We're taught to stay inside the color lines, and that brainwashes us," Rhys says. "It's been cool to change that way of thinking and go outside the box by combining red, blonde and brown hues to create richer, spicier color." She says her clients have been thrilled with this new method and her peers have been trying it on their own.

Rhys warns that experimentation on models is important to get the ratios and tones down, and notes that since the dark colors overpower the light, colorists should use a ratio of one-quarter of the dark to one-half of the light. For example, for an almond brown hue, use more honey blonde and less espresso. Rhys works with Wella colors a lot because of their high shine factor and blendable pigments. The shades can be applied in slices or highlights to create what Rhys calls "a sea of beautiful colors."

Brad Johns, color director for Elizabeth Arden Red Door Salon in Manhattan, promotes a similar palette for fall. "Go to a candy store and see which shades you gravitate toward," he says. "Chances are it's caramels, toffees, butterscotch. Those are the shades haircolor should be."

For Redken Haircolor Consultant David Stanko, who works at Angelo David Salon in New York City, this fall is "all about customizing and redefining single-process color with subtle lows and interesting highs." Stanko sees single-process haircolor as an affordable luxury that can be given a new flavor by adding interesting elements like painted-on highlights. "People are watching their money in this economy," he says. "Women don't want a complete makeover; they want a revision of their existing haircolor." To that effect, Stanko is warming up brunettes with auburn hues and adding in delicately placed hints of golden brown. For blondes, he's creating a richer, shinier, creamier color by mixing Shades EQ Buttercream with Platinum Ice. The maintenance for the new color is the same, so the look is still cost-conscious. —LORI MORRIS




Redken makes it easier to create stunning light blonde color in a single process.

Redken Blonding Gels have been reformulated and expanded to become the new Fashion Gels Blonde Series. Part of the Color Gels Permanent Conditioning Haircolor brand, the collection has five shades that range from cool violet to warm vanilla, providing necessary cool tones to counteract warmth during lifting and giving colorists more tonal control. Clear and Gold options give warmer results when needed. The gels are 100-percent oxidative and UV stable for long-lasting color and have wheat proteins and avocado oil to protect hair and keep it touchable and glossy. redken.com



Shine On


Because not all blondes are created equal, Wella developed Koleston Perfect Special Blonde. Choose it when you want highly creative color effects. It's also designed for clients who want to lighten their naturally dark hair with brilliant blonde effects, while refusing to compromise on shine or condition. The Special Blonde range includes nine shades for safe lightening by up to five levels, either for highlights or single-process color. What's more, a high concentration of caring, smoothing lipids protects the hair. The result? Blonde hair that is not only easier to comb but that looks incredibly healthy and shiny, too. wella.com



Bowled Over


ColorWhip mixing bowls from Product Club are perfect for attaining just the right shades for fall. The bowls, which have a nonskid bottom, feature an extra-deep design to minimize splattering. Each three-pack contains a silver, red and black bowl. productclub.com



Brush Up


The trend for fall is all about warm colors and subtle, painted-on highlights. Clairol Professional Premium Creme has 46 intermixable shades that allow stylists myriad options for creating that look. To get the results shown here, try Clairol Professional Premium Creme in 3NN with 10 volume and 5AA with 30 volume. The soy-derived color formula also provides deep conditioning that smoothes the hair shaft to lock in color, improves combability and delivers a healthy feel and shine. For increased control over highlights, try the Precision Brush from Product Club. clairolpro.com; productclub.com



Color Fast


Infiniti Permanent Hair Colour Cream from Affinage features new DATEM Technology, which speeds up the coloring process and creates long-lasting color and gray coverage. DATEM works by encapsulating oxygen and releasing it inside the hair, allowing deeper penetration of the pigment and conditioning base. When used with gentle heat, DATEM speeds up processing time without sacrificing results. Infiniti's super smooth base creme also saves time with lump-free mixing and easy application. Infiniti comes in 90 ready-to-use shades and 13 "mix shades." The Coffee Shop Collection is perfect for fall's warmed-up hues. affinage.com



Copper Mine


Copper-toned hair lit up the runways for the fall '08 fashion shows. You can give your clients these fashionable hues with the Copper Series from Paul Mitchell The Color. The eight new shades, which range from bold and warm to soft and cool, are inspired by the natural iridescence of copper after it's been exposed to the elements. The Copper Series provides 100 percent gray coverage without brassiness or orange tones, leaving clients with beautiful coppery red hair that will fit right in with the season's palette. www.paulmitchell.com/Products/ProfessionalServices/PaulMitchell-thecolor/Pages/PaulMitchell-thecolor.aspx/



New Age


When hair begins to act its age, it's time to turn back the clock with Joico Vero K-PAK Age Defy haircolor line, a new innovation that addresses the three dimensions of graying hair: color, texture and luster. Vero K-PAK Color Age Defy features comprehensive 3-Defense Technology and Quadramine Complex to restore hair to its youthful manageability and vibrancy and provide long-lasting gray coverage. Available in 15 shades and three palettes—Natural, Copper Gold and Natural Red—each formula reconstructs hair's structure for optimal health and condition. joico.com





Goldwell moves into fall with the introduction of Colorance Browns demipermanent shades.

"This fall, let's try to make our haircolor beautiful," Brad Johns says. "Think warm shades of chestnut or caramel, not anything white, ashy or stripey. If you don't know what beautiful is, rent a Technicolor movie from the '40s with Rita Hayworth or Hedy Lamaar. Or go see paintings from the Renaissance. Look at the works of Titian or Caravaggio. You won't see stripes in the hair." Goldwell is answering Johns' call—and that of the 60 percent of salon color clients who have brown hair—for brilliant and subtle brunettes with its new Colorance Browns demipermanent shades. The cool jade browns and intensive warm brown beige fashion shades provide multidimensional, natural brown results with amazing gloss and shine. goldwell.com



Ooh La La


Eugene Perma Paris is relaunching its Safranissim'oh! oxidative haircolor line. The ammonia- and allergen-free color cream is enriched with the Harmony Color Complex, a blend of active elements and Behen oil that works to improve hair's natural texture and provide high shine. The formula is designed for optimal color dispersion and gradually fades to soften the effect of root re-growth. Safranissim'oh! comes in 31 shades for single-process color and highlights. eugeneperma.fr



The Red Zone


For clients looking to be in the red this fall, Keune Red Booster will provide the vibrant shades they desire. Thanks to the company's revolutionary new Color Infusion technology, Red Booster intensifies both color and shine when it is mixed with Keune's Tinta Color red shades. Professional colorists can achieve luminous results even on dark hair. www.keune.com