Some say it all started with Victoria Beckhamâ€™s debut of her pixie cut at the Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2009 Fashion Show. Now you canâ€™t go anywhere without seeing short, piecey styles on womenâ€”from the streets of New York to the sidewalks ofÂ the suburbs. Styling short hair can be tricky, but with some quick and easy tricks, you can achieve the look you want on your model or guest in a snap. Here are some of my favorite tips, taught at Tearsheetâ€™s Artistic Classes in New York City by some of the best session stylists in the industry.
First, decide if the desired texture should be shiny or matte (if youâ€™re working on-set, remember that through a photo lens, the hair is seen differently depending on how the light reflects off the style). Based off your choice, choosing the right products is important. Pomade and waxes offer high moldable shine whereas pastes and working putties give a matte, drier finish.
SHINY FINISH: Blow dry hair with a texturizing product using a fine tooth comb or brush. The bristles will collapse the cuticle giving a smoother, more shiny effect on the hair naturally. This will also cut the amount of volume you get from the hair. Use a product like pomade or a working wax to achieve the desired shine. A good tip I like to use is layering the product into the style after emulsifying it in your hands. Also, remember that pomades and waxes tend to soften under heat from the lights. To help support your style, a light mist of working aerosol like workforce 09 flexible volumizing spray will help prolong the life of the product under heat and multiple hair styles.
MATTE FINISH: Rough dry hair using your fingers or a wide tooth comb. Less tension from a brush (fewer bristles and further apart) on the hair will give you more volume and give a matte finish to begin with. Apply product sparingly to start (I like Redken's rough paste 12 working material for good hold and support with no shine), then work with the product by layering it into the style, making sure to emulsify properly to ensure even distribution. Pinch and twist hair ends to enhance texture.
Seen at the runways of Spring/Summer 2010 Fashion Week and on the most high-profile celebs, the short hair trend is here and here to stay - make sure you arm yourself with the best techniques and creative styling ideas, ensuring your clients will never end up with the â€˜short end of the stick.â€™
Giovanni Giuntoli is the Artistic Director at Tearsheet Editorial Styling Classes in New York City and a Redken Session Stylist. He has worked with such magazines and designers as Nylon, Cosmopolitan, O, The Oprah Magazine, WWD, Lucky, Glamour, Chris Benz and Armani Exchange and is a staple at NYC Fashion Week. He also shoots major designerâ€™s advertisements, and lookbooks, and is a regular during Bridal Fashion Week for designers Amsale, Kenneth Poole, Christos, and Angel Sanchez.