How-To: Scissor Over Comb

 

In this simple how-to video, Traci Sakosits, North American Creative Director for Sassoon Academies, flawlessly demonstrates the Pareto Principle: The 80/20 Rule means that in any set of things a few (20%) are vital and many (80%) are considered trivial.

The principle – applied in the case of cutting hair the Sassoon way – is that the final 20% of work during the definition and finish phase will produce 80% of the result, giving the look its individuality and helping to train the eyes to see detail. Read on to discover how to achieve a technically on-point finish using Pareto’s 80/20 principle – plus learn how to implement a precise scissor over comb technique.

YOUR WEEKLY NEWSLETTER - FREE

Enjoying this story? Subscribe to the American Salon Newsletter

Get inspirational trends, techniques, tips, education and the latest beauty news delivered right to your inbox! To read on the go, sign up today to get weekly beauty news and updates.

Steps 1-3 represent the bulk of the work, or 80%, while steps 4-8 (which are depicted in the video) represent the finishing work, or 20%.    

Step 1: Establish the basic shape; this includes optimal length and internal proportions.

Step 2: Cross check for precision.

Step 3: Graduate the external length into the internal lengths, working through the fingers.

Step 4: Achieve precision when working scissor over comb.

  • Scissor and comb move in unison.
  • Work parallel to the hairline.
  • Work in vertical channels from the hairline, up.
  • Work both visually and technically.
  • Once done, the hair should appear velvety in texture.

Step 5: Blow dry the hair with a Vess brush.

Step 6: Graduate and refine the lines to include the fringe. Graduation in the fringe area is achieved by following these simple techniques.  

  • Work over the head to achieve an even tension across the forehead.
  • Draw a line with the tip of the scissor.
  • The graduation on the edge of the hair creates a geometric look that settles onto the skin.

Step 7: The final definition is done with the smallest comb, to further graduate and fade the hairline.

Remember - the last 20% gives you 80% of the result – and a strong finished look is dependent upon your ability to pay attention to the details.

Are you a member of hairbrained.me? If not, you could be missing out on a career-shaping opportunity. Join our community, and become a part of a radically different kind of social media network, created by hairdressers for hairdressers. Connect online with a community of like-minded peers from around the globe.     

Suggested Articles

Affected communities will be required to close personal service businesses, including hair and nail salons, playgrounds, zoos, museums and more.

Headliners: Bobbi Brown, Sir John, Andrew Carruthers and more. Proceeds will benefit beauty-based education programs and those affected by COVID-19.

Her go-to hairstylist took to Instagram to share the breakdown for the look.