Lucus Etcitty Demonstrates: ‘Shape and Balance,’ with Hairbrained

When it comes to color, the Sassoon Philosophy is clear: Perfect, well-placed color should compliment, accentuate and strengthen the lines of a haircut. In fact, having a good understanding of the way that hair has been cut – so that color can be properly placed – is considered an art form in and of itself. This art form is referred to as ‘shape and balance.’

Using the principles of ‘shape and balance,’ Lucus Etcitty, Senior Color Director of the Sassoon Academy, Los Angeles, flawlessly demonstrates the use of the ‘two-tone technique,’ to add depth and movement to a short, layered shape. This technique can be used to accentuate blunt shapes and angles, plus is also suited to layered haircuts, to add dimension and contrast. Read on to discover how you can properly use this technique to add definition – and get the maximum amount of impact from complimentary cuts and colors.     

Step 1: Using curved or zigzag-sectioning patterns can soften a two-toned technique. Crosscheck the haircut for areas of focus and desired enhancement; use different levels and tones to achieve blended results. 


Enjoying this story? Subscribe to the American Salon Newsletter

Get inspirational trends, techniques, tips, education and the latest beauty news delivered right to your inbox! To read on the go, sign up today to get weekly beauty news and updates.

Step 2: Apply level 4 intense violet mixed with 10 volume developer to the back of the head. Using a zigzag pattern, separate front and back sections; part at the crown of the head, which will add a soft contrast to your look. Continue the application using a classic ‘tint technique,’ working from the nape of the neck towards the crown of the head.  

Step 3: Apply a level 5 violet red mixed with 20 volume developer to the front area. Use a light, feathering application technique. This will prevent shadowing on the hairline.  

Step 4: Process at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Step 5:  Shampoo and condition with color a protective formula.

Are you a member of If not, you could be missing out on a career-shaping opportunity. Join our community, and become a part of a radically different kind of social media network, created by hairdressers for hairdressers. Connect online with a community of like-minded peers from around the globe.

Suggested Articles

Headliners: Bobbi Brown, Sir John, Andrew Carruthers and more. Proceeds will benefit beauty-based education programs and those affected by COVID-19.

Amika has reinforced their commitment to go cleaner and greener by introducing a free, national recycling program.

Hair industry veterans Ray Civello and Lupe Voss have collaborated on a high-tech color line: Color Space, driven by science and education.