If I had a Tim Tam—an Australian cookie—for every time I heard, “I want to look thinner,” I could open my own bakery. It’s a common complaint from clients, but especially as the hot season approaches and all the glossy magazines go into overdrive with features on being “Bikini-Body Ready!” One of the silliest magazine coverlines of all time was the one that blared “Drop A Dress Size By Saturday.” It sounded as if the editors were prescribing starvation. While I’m all for diet and exercise, there are cosmetic shortcuts one can use to sculpt faces, slim the complexion (and the legs) and camouflage any disproportionate features. Here’s the skinny on makeup:
From Round to Oval: Let the foundation do the work. Contour your client’s face with two shades, one a bit lighter and one slightly darker than the natural skin tone. Apply the darker shade with a moist sponge to the fuller areas of your client’s temples, under the cheek bone and along the jaw line. Apply the lighter foundation under the eyes, on the bridge of the nose, chin and lightly across the forehead. A finishing powder is best for locking all of the foundation in place. When applying blush, avoid using it on the apples of the cheeks as this may make the face appear fuller. Instead, use blush on the hollows of the cheeks.
The Power of the Brow: Embrace perfect eyebrows as a way to create a slimming illusion. Strong eyebrows on a smaller, delicate face will appear overwhelming, while thin brows on a fuller visage will make the face appear larger. Make sure your client’s eyebrows are not too close together or too far apart. Balance and proportion is the key for a slimming effect. Angled eyebrow lines counteract facial roundness and help to give the face balance. Instead of centering the peak of the brow, the highest point of the brow should be skewed a little closer to the end of the brow line. Sculpt the brow so it is gradually thinner from peak to tail. Create a lifted effect for the face by aiming the end of the brow higher, rather than lower. An effective guide is to aim the end of the brow line towards the tip of the ear.
Shrink The Upper Body: Women often use shimmer and highlight on the décolletage to enhance a fuller, voluptuous bust. If your client’s goal is to shrink the neck and décolletage, shimmer or shine is not your friend. Instead, use tanning products with a matte bronze payoff. A matte shade will achieve a subtle, slimming effect. Try Napoleon Perdis Summer Lovers Self Tanning Mousse.
Flirt In A Short Skirt: What woman doesn’t want legs that go on for miles? I have been chiseling and sculpting legs (no tools required) for runway and red carpet appearances for years. Use a darker cream like my NP Set Liquid Veil in Buenos Aires on the outer leg to shrink any bulk. Create the appearance of thinner, elongated leg by applying a lighter shade of NP Set Liquid Veil in Houston or London. Avoid the pool.
In 1995, celebrity makeup artist Napoleon Perdis debuted his line of cosmetics and launched his first concept store and Makeup Academy in Sydney. Today, Napoleon Perdis has 59 stand-alone concept stores and more than 800 point-of-sale locations across Australia and New Zealand. In the U.S., the brand has three Napoleon Perdis stores and is sold in select independent retailers. Celebrity fans of the brand include Jessica Szohr, Lady Gaga, Becki Newton, Debra Messing, Lindsay Lohan, Amanda Bynes, Shenae Grimes, Whitney Port, Adrienne Bailon and more.