To coincide with our August cover feature Dark Shadows, showcasing the new Neo Goth collection from Aveda, we reveal the color how-tos of The Carmina Look. —Aja Edwards
Color by Yuji Okawa, Master Colorist, Aveda Japan
Formula 1: Intense Bordeux Full Spectrum Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color
10g 4Natural Light Brown
30g Intense Base
12g Violet/Red Pure Tone
4g Pure Pigment Red 40g 20 Volume Color Catalyst Creme Developer
Full Spectrum Deep Variant
Full Spectrum Deep Extra-Lift and Deposit Creme Color for Dark Hair
20g 6Natural Dark Blonde
6g Dark Red/Violet Pure Tone
48g 20 Volume Color Catalyst Creme Developer
Formula 2: Intense Light Red
Full Spectrum Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color
30g 5Natural Lightest Brown
10g Intense Base
8g Pure Pigment Red
40g 20 Volume Color Catalyst Creme Developer
Full Spectrum Deep Extra Lift and Deposit Creme Color for Dark Hair
15g Bright Base 6g Light Red/Red Pure Tone
2g Dark Red/Violet Pure Tone
46g 20 Volume Color Catalyst Creme Developer
Step 1: Create the top panel, panel 3, by creating an arc from recession to recession. Make sure to include the point of distribution.
Step 2: Create a center part from the top of panel 3 to the nape.
Step 3: From this part, create a panel that arcs from the occipital bone to just above the ear on both sides of the head. This creates panel 1 and panel 2.
Step 4: Apply formula 1 to panel 1, new growth to ends. Isolate with foil.
Step 5: On panel 2, take 1⁄4"-thick diagonal slices starting at the front hairline and working through to the center back parting, apply formula 1 at the new growth. Use the Aveda color melting technique to apply formula 2 through mid-lengths and ends. Isolate each section with foil.
Step 6: Repeat on the other side through panel 2.
Step 7: Subdivide panel 3 by creating a diagonal part from the front right corner through to the back of panel 3, just behind the point of recession, creating sub-panels 3a and 3b.
Step 8: Starting from the back left corner of sub-panel 3a and working forward, continue to color melt 1⁄4"-thick slices using formula 1 and formula 2. Isolate each section with foil.
Step 9: Working in an opposite diagonal direction, color melt formula 1 and formula 2 through sub-panel 3b. Isolate each section with foil.
Step 10: Process the hair according to directions. Rinse the hair thoroughly with comfortably hot water to remove the color. Shampoo with color conserveTM shampoo. Apply color conserveTM pHinishTM and rinse again with cool water. Towel-dry the hair well to prepare it for the botanical therapy hair treatment.
Step 11: Apply a botanical therapy hair treatment based on the condition of the hair. For dry hair, perform the moisture treatment using dry remedyTM penetrating moisture. For damaged hair, perform the repair treatment using damage remedyTM penetrating protein. Once the hair treatment has been applied, process at room temperature for 5 minutes and rinse. You do not need to shampoo or condition the hair.