Orange You Pretty

Experts create new delivery systems for vitamin C topicals, resulting in glowing skin and a smooth outlook.

One of the best ingredients for our skin is antioxidant ascorbic acid, better known as vitamin C. Dermatologists have agreed for some time that vitamin C-infused topical products for the face stimulate collagen synthesis and fight free radicals, two benefits that are critical to maintaining healthy skin. Now skincare companies are finding new ways to best deliver this miracle ingredient. “An effective formulation of L-ascorbic acid needs to have a pH between 2.5 and 3.0, a concentration of 20 percent L-ascorbic acid and be packaged to prevent oxidation,” says Dr. Lawrence Samuels, chief of dermatology at St. Luke’s Hospital in St. Louis and creator of the skincare line Rx Systems PF. With this in mind, Dr. Samuels developed Age Defense Antioxidant Serum C containing an effective amount of L-ascorbic acid to prevent premature signs of aging and to accelerate the healing of skin.

Dermalogica offers MultiVitamin Power Serum infused with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), a nonacidic, stable form of vitamin C that the company says effectively maintains the benefits of the ingredient. MAP is vitamin C modified with magnesium and phosphate to protect its molecular structure, which is susceptible to chemical reactions that make it ineffective; in turn, skin’s natural enzymes break off the magnesium and phosphate, releasing the ascorbic acid into facial tissues. Along with MAP, the MultiVitamin Power Serum also contains vitamins A, E and F to enhance cell turnover, as well as Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR), a retinoid ester that fights early signs of aging.; —J.T.


Enjoying this story? Subscribe to the American Salon Newsletter

Get inspirational trends, techniques, tips, education and the latest beauty news delivered right to your inbox! To read on the go, sign up today to get weekly beauty news and updates.

Photography: VEER (FACE VALUE)