Sam's Playlist - Hair Cutting Foundations Part 2: Over Direction
We began our foundations of hair cutting series with elevation – this is the ‘up and down’ movement of the hair – it controls the vertical aspect of the silhouette. For part 2 of our series, we explore over direction (the opposite of elevation) and how it is the forward and back movement of the hair – over direction controls the horizontal aspect of the silhouette.
Think about the context in which we use these two words – Over Direction – in hair cutting:
Over – past, beyond
Direction – position, aim
Ways to over direct the hair:
Over direct forward
Creates length and density toward the back of the head
Over direct back
Creates length and density toward the front of the head
Cutting the hair without moving hair forward or backward
Leaves the hair to follow the natural head shape
All the hair is directed to and cut at the point of a stationary guide
The guide never moves
This action results in the maximum over direction within a shape
All the hair is cut with a traveling guide
Each new section that is cut becomes the point of cutting for the next section
This action results in a much softer build up of weight
All the hair is cut to a visual point
This action is easier to comprehend by watching Andrew in the video above
No over direction
Over direct to a stationary guide
Over direct to a previously cut section
Over direct to a visual plane
Mastering these over direction techniques creates maximum control of your shapes! You will comprehend how to place the weight and density exactly where you want it to live in your designs.
About: Sam Villa is founding partner of the Sam Villa brand (Allvus, LLC), designed to bring “More Sam to More People.” The educational world of this Favorite Platform Artist and Educator (2012, 2011 and 2007), Favorite Overall Educator of the Year (2015) and Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue, can be experienced on www.samvilla.com.
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