Sam's Playlist - Hair Cutting Foundations Part 2: Over Direction

We began our foundations of hair cutting series with elevation – this is the ‘up and down’ movement of the hair – it controls the vertical aspect of the silhouette. For part 2 of our series, we explore over direction (the opposite of elevation) and how it is the forward and back movement of the hair – over direction controls the horizontal aspect of the silhouette.
Think about the context in which we use these two words – Over Direction – in hair cutting:
  • Over – past, beyond
  • Direction – position, aim
Ways to over direct the hair:
  • Over direct forward
    • Creates length and density toward the back of the head
  • Over direct back
  • Creates length and density toward the front of the head
  • Cutting the hair without moving hair forward or backward
  • Leaves the hair to follow the natural head shape
  • All the hair is directed to and cut at the point of a stationary guide
  • The guide never moves
  • This action results in the maximum over direction within a shape
  • All the hair is cut with a traveling guide
  • Each new section that is cut becomes the point of cutting for the next section
  • This action results in a much softer build up of weight
  • All the hair is cut to a visual point
  • This action is easier to comprehend by watching Andrew in the video above
  • No over direction
  • Over direct to a stationary guide
  • Over direct to a previously cut section
  • Over direct to a visual plane
Mastering these over direction techniques creates maximum control of your shapes! You will comprehend how to place the weight and density exactly where you want it to live in your designs.
About: Sam Villa is founding partner of the Sam Villa brand (Allvus, LLC), designed to bring “More Sam to More People.”  The educational world of this Favorite Platform Artist and Educator (2012, 2011 and 2007), Favorite Overall Educator of the Year (2015) and Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue, can be experienced on


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