Erratic growth patterns at the neckline can be intimidating! What do we do to manage these difficult necklines? Do we take the hairline up high to cut away the chaos and get to the point where the growth pattern is easily managed? Or do we let it grow and keep it longer?
We want to take a soft approach to these hairlines so the end result is natural looking. We can manage the growth by the tools we use and how we hold and use them.
Recommended Tools For Success
- Sam Villa Signature Series Razor w/Straight Edge blade
- Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear
- Sam Villa Long Cutting Comb in Ivory for contrast to dark hair
Clean Up the Neckline
- Pick up your razor with a straight edge blade
- Begin to remove all the neck hair directly below the edges of the hairline
Why use a razor instead of clippers or a trimmer? We can get closer to the skin with a razor than with a clipper leaving a softer edge. The casings of the Sam Villa Signature Series Razor Blades are coated with silicone for a smooth glide on the hair as well as the skin.
HOT TIP – When using a razor on a neckline, be sure the blade is new so it will not irritate the skin on the neck. You can dab conditioner on the neck if your guest is prone to irritation.
Remove Weight & Manage Density
- Once the neck hair is removed pick up the Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear
- Begin to chip away the hair at the edges to remove weight and manage the density – take your time and be aware of the light and shadows within the area you are working in.
HOT TIP – The Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear is the perfect tool for this technique as you will not leave any lines in the hair. The blunt blade is highly polished and does not cut the hair. The cutting blade has 23 teeth with very sharp convex edges, which allows you to slide-out in any direction with zero drag or pull. When both blades of the shear close the hair is pushed down onto the blunt blade with the teeth – this creates soft arched cutting lines rather than hard straight lines.
Address Sides of the Neckline & Create Balance Throughout Light & Shadowed Areas
- Once you have the bottom of the neckline managed, proceed to the sides and lightly remove the density in the areas that appear heavy
- Take your time and be aware of the light and shadows within the area you are working in as to not create too much separation
HOT TIP – The hair on the side of the neck may be longer than it is at the center bottom of the hairline. If you take the sides as short as you may have taken the center bottom, this area will be noticeably lighter, ‘see through’ to the skin. Keep the density as consistent as possible by moving slowly and paying attention to the other areas you have already cut.
- To address the shadows (the denser areas) cut into those areas with the InvisiBlend Shear as it will extract weight without leaving lines, offering seamless blending that delivers natural looking results
- Once you have the neckline complete and visibly pleasing you can come back in with your razor to clean up any stray hairs along the edges and neckline
After The Appointment
Pre-book the next appointment for your guest based on the how quickly the hairline will once again begin to look chaotic. And just a suggestion, let him know he can come in for a quick neck trim in between!
We want to manage these challenging necklines with the right tools to result in a very natural and visibly pleasing look - no squared or rounded off shapes. Using a lighter hand when cutting and attention to detail will definitely ensure the natural look.
About: Sam Villa is founding partner of the Sam Villa brand (Allvus, LLC), designed to bring “More Sam to More People.” The educational world of this Favorite Platform Artist and Educator (2012, 2011 and 2007), Favorite Overall Educator of the Year (2015) and Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue, can be experienced on www.samvilla.com.