We’re getting into a very exciting season in hair. In fashion, spring 2010 is three-dimensional—marked by ruffles, gathering, tilted collars, diagonal lines and opposing fabrics colliding in the same garment. To capture that three-dimensional feel in hair, we’re creating offset shapes. That’s why the latest bold, geometric shapes look so fresh—they incorporate the tilt. This gives a contemporary feel to the sexy volume that’s fun in the warmer weather. Crowns are going from short to long, with length in the fringe area.
While disconnection continues to be the strongest element in design, it has softened to increase the sense of beauty. The raw and exaggerated disconnection we saw in past seasons has matured, and now we’re applying the technique to conceal undercut layers within the hair design. That provides looseness to the style by allowing the internal hair to move. Your clients will walk around with hidden secrets in their hair cuts!
My advice is to use patterns in the way you section and cut the hair. Many of you probably cut by starting with a horizontal section at the nape, pinning everything else up, cutting the nape section and then loosening the rest and finishing the cut. Instead, try what I call “compressed cutting.” Isolate more sections on the sides and top, but keep the sections large. Then start the cut, one section at a time. That’s working with patterns. It will produce more blunt lines within soft disconnection.
The cool thing is that these spring and summer shapes have a double identity. They look different depending on which way the head swings and whether the client feels like going sleek and smooth that day or using a texturizing spray to create a textured volume look. Create controlled volume by starting at the scalp, pinching each section with a flat iron and following it through the hair with a round brush behind it. Teach your clients that type of technique in working with thermal tools and a round brush to add texture, bevel, movement and volume. The result is a 1970s glamour vibe with the versatility of today.
Sam Villa has more than 25 years experience as a platform artist and educator for major salon professional companies. Part of the Redken family for the past 11 years, Sam is Redken’s Education Artistic Director and Design & Training Consultant and appears on redken.com as a spokesperson for consumer consultations. He is in constant demand at international and domestic trade shows and in-salon programs, where his progressive teaching approach enables stylists to absorb new techniques quickly and for practical use in the salon. In 2008, Sam launched his website, www.samvilla.com, along with his own brand of digital media education and styling tools for salon professionals.