Layers are one of the best ways to add volume, bounce and softness to your clients look. But what about protecting your clients length and avoiding an unwanted mullet shape? TheFactory's D.J. Muldoon (@danieljosephmuldoon) shows us a different approach to long layers that not only avoids these problems, but also makes this often-requested style more efficient and voluminous.
Tips:
• Start with your layering, creating a convex layer which will then become concaved. Not only will creating a triangular interior reduce density, but also protect your cuts external shape and soften length.
• Cut in a triangular shape. Following the structures of your clients face will not only make your layers complimentary, but also help push the weight of your cut forwards rather than backwards to avoid the mullet look.
• Cutting on the inside of the fingers tends to leave blunt lines (and create heaviness), by cutting outside of the fingers not only is it easier to protect length but also cut on a curve.
• As long as you can control and see your guideline, you can work efficiently—which is essential working in a salon setting.
• Use the room to help guide you where to over direct each section and connect guidelines. A haircut is basically a three dimensional box. Use markers, such as a mirror behind you, to help perfectly section the hair.
• Make sure to always comb the side of the section you are about to cut.
• Cut at 90 degrees to avoid peak of weight. Consistency with elevation is key to cutting layers.
• Most mistakes happen during the cross-check portion of the haircut. When doing your cross checks always try to match your check with your cut; so if you cut the section diagonally upwards, don't cross check holding the hair flat.
• To keep consistency with your tension while working on longer hair, try dropping your elbow and focus on finger angle instead as working with a lifted elbow, which can be limiting when working on longer lengths.
• When it comes to approaching how to cut your face-framing layers, there are two methods: cutting vertically or horizontally. When cutting vertically we have a tendency to use over direction in order to bring weight to the front of the face. This can be risky when cutting longer hair as you could mullet it. So, it's better to approach you face-framing layers horizontally; using elevation and finger angle for control.
• Remember that when cutting layers, the aim is to remove weight and bring lift and volume to the crown of the head. By creating a triangular interior you can improve efficiency, as the cut helps you do less later to create the volume your clients crave without having to "get crazy" with your brush.
About: Founder and co-owner of The Factory, D.J. Muldoon (@danieljosephmuldoon) has managed to create a significant presence and growing loyal following without the support of a manufacturer. With roots firmly planted in the global Sassoon culture, Muldoon is a second-generation haircutter with high engagement across social media platforms.