Color Your World
For clients looking to dramatically mix up their look without changing their overall haircolor, try a shadow root technique, like the Mystic Mist blue hue by Scruples, seen above. Even ice blondes are opting for a dark root to create extra dimension, says Mia Liguori, co-president of creative at Scruples. The look was achieved by pre-lightening hair and the roots, and creating a smudged root on hair that was sectioned into a diamond at the top of the head.
Here, Mia Liguori co-president of creative at Scruples shares how to get the look.
FORMULAS:
- Pre-Lighten Roots: 1 part POWER BLONDE 9+ Lightening Powder + 1 part PURE OXI 20 Volume Creme Developer
- Pre-Lighten Mid-Shaft to Ends: 1 part POWER BLONDE 9+ Lightening Powder + 2 parts PURE OXI 30 Volume Creme Developer
- Dimension Color 1: 1/2 oz. 4N + 1/2 oz. Graphite TRUE INTEGRITY Opalescent Creme Colour Level 4 Neutral + Graphite Intensifier + 1 1/2 oz. PURE OXI Demi-Permanent Creme Developer
- Dimension Color 2: 1 oz. POWER BLONDE Conditioning Gel Fashion Toner Mist + 1 oz. PURE OXI 10 Volume Creme Developer
- Dimension Color 3: 1/2 oz. POWER BLONDE Conditioning Gel Fashion Toner Mist + 1 1/2 oz. PURE OXI 10 Volume Creme Developer
STEPS:
- Apply the Pre-Lighten Mid-Shaft to Ends Formula first using a virgin application method, then apply the Pre-Lighten Roots formula.
- Rinse with cool water and lightly shampoo and condition hair.
- Create a diamond section on top of the head from the hairline, two to three inches above the top of ear to the round of head. This will create two sections.
- On shampooed hair, starting on bottom section, apply smudge root with Dimension Color 1 and on the rest of the hair, Dimension Color 2. Place color papers over the bottom section to separate and drop top section over.
- Continue in top sub section applying smudge root with Dimension Color 1, blend into Dimension Color 2 and into the ends with Dimension Color 3. Then process for 30 minutes.
- Rinse with cool water and lightly shampoo and condition.
Bonding Time
Today’s color formulas and treatments make it easier than ever for clients to achieve beautiful color without the damage. Bonding systems are all the rage today, and for good reason. They not only help minimize damage to hair, but they help protect and strengthen the hair during color and lightening treatments. Here’s a look at some of the newest and most innovative bonding products available today.
1. Redken Color Extend Bonder is a three-step treatment system to be used two weeks after a color or lightening service. It helps repair and strengthen hair, protects the cuticle for color longevity, and removes mineral deposits for a shiny and smooth look. redken.com
2. B3 Ionic Color Lock Bond Builder utilizes breakthrough technology to seal the cuticle and help lock in all shades, highlights and blonde tones, keep hair cleaner for longer, and cut down styling time. brazilianbondbuilder.com
3. Wella Professionals WellaPlex is a three-step process that uses malic acid, which helps to reconstruct inner hair bonds and to create an optimal pH for beautiful color results. wella.com
4. KeraColor Bond Complex Girl is a single-step product that can be mixed into color formulations to help prevent breakage, while increasing hair’s color retention, vibrancy and integrity. keracolorhair.com
5. Matrix Total Results The Re-Bond 3-Step System is ideal for extremely damaged hair and consists of Re-Bond Shampoo, Pre-Conditioner and Conditioner, which sustain bond resilience. matrixprofessional.com
Natural Blends
Hand-painting and highlights that are more one dimensional and tone-on-tone are gaining popularity, says Lucie Doughty, creative director at John Paul Mitchell Systems. “It’s all about achieving a youthful, illuminating effect,” she says. Enhanced natural hues, especially rich warm tones like spicy reds, rusty coppers, honey blondes and chocolates are in, she adds, like this shiny, rich brunette shade that’s illuminated by subtle face-framing highlights.
Here, Lucie Doughty, creative director at John Paul Mitchell systems, breaks down how to get the look.
FORMULAS:
- Highlights: 1 scoop SynchroLift® + 1 ½ oz. (45 g/ml) 30 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer.
- Base: 1 oz. (30 g/ml) the color XG® 6NB (6/07) + ½ oz. (15 g/ml) the color XG® 6RB (6/47) + 2 ¼ oz. (68 g/ml) 20 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
- Mids and Ends: 1 oz. (30 g/ml) the color XG® 7NB (7/07) + ½ oz. (15 g/ml) the color XG® 7RB (7/47) + 2 ¼ oz. (68 g/ml) 30 volume Paul Mitchell® Cream Developer
- Toner: 1 oz. (30 g/ml) The Demi 9N (9/0) + 1 oz. (30 g/ml) The Demi 6G (6/03) + 2 oz. (60 g/ml) Paul Mitchell® Processing Liquid
STEPS:
- Begin by parting a triangular section on the top of the head, incorporating the high crown in the point of the triangle. Next, section out the two sides from the front hairline to the back, just at or above the occipital bone.
- Beginning at the front hairline in the side section, take a vertical diagonal back slice and backcomb to remove density. Hold the backcombed hair in place and position a foil underneath the remaining hair. Apply lightener.
- Take another slice ¼-inch to ½-inch behind the first foil and repeat the highlights technique. Continue to place three or four close slices until you reach the ear.
- Behind the ear, continue the slices but begin to space out the foils (anywhere from 1-inch to 1 ½-inches) in between. Stop once you reach the center back.
- Move to the opposite side at the front hairline. Repeat the highlights technique using vertical diagonal back sections, placing foils closer together near the hairline and farther apart toward the back.
- Once the sides are in foils, continue to the top and repeat the highlights technique. Release the top triangle section and begin with a slight diagonal sectioning at the front hairline. Continue to place foils closer together toward the front.
- While foils begin processing, mix the base formula and apply to just the base in between foils, as well as the teased hair outside of the foils.
- Next, mix formula for the mids and ends and apply to all hair in between foils. Process for 35 to 45 minutes and rinse thoroughly. Shampoo and condition hair.
- Once towel-dried, apply toner and emulsify throughout. Process for 20 minutes and rinse thoroughly.
A Whole New Hue
The latest vibrant shades and tools from leading color companies are guaranteed to brighten up your clients’ day.
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Product Club’s Curved Thermal Balayage Strips And Jetblack Nitrile Textured Color Gloves are the brand’s latest additions. The strips, a new version of the Thermal Wraps, are washable and reusable, help to control color bleeding, and feature a curved edge to contour the head. The gloves, developed by Matrix artist and NAHA winner, Daniel Roldan, are powder-, latex- and static-free, and feature a unique textured pattern to provide optimal color application. productclub.com
Farouk Chi Ionic Liquid Shine Shades recently welcomed a violet series that comes in levels 4, 6 and 8. In addition, blue, violet and double ash pigments have joined the family of additives in the CHI Shine Shades line. chi.com
Aloxxi Ultra Hot Intense Semi-Permanent Fashion Colors were expanded to include ULTRA HOT Black, ULTRA HOT Neon Teal and ULTRA HOT Neon Green. These shades can be used by themselves or intermixed with other ULTRA HOT shades. All shades are formulated with advanced direct dye technology for even color results that fade on tone. aloxxi.com
Aveda Full Spectrum Demi+ Custom-Deposit Treatment Haircolor is a 93 percent naturally derived, deposit-only haircolor in a wide range of vibrant shades infused with a blend of botanical ingredients to create colors that are easy to apply and that leave hair shiny and conditioned. The line includes nine levels of color and 10 tones. aveda.com