Knowing how to cut hair of all textures is the goal for most stylists, and each texture type has different needs. Over 65% of the global population identifies with having textured hair, curls, coils, and/or waves, says Ashley Brown, Sam Villa ambassador and Mizani artist, and it's important for licensed pros to be able to service these guests and provide solutions to the challenges they naturally have based on their hair texture. "Classic curl-cutting methods make it challenging for my guests to transition back and forth from wearing their hair curly to straight," she says, so she relies on the Mizani Aircut to allow clients to transition from their natural curly, coily or wavy hair to smoother blown-out looks with ease.
The Aircut Method uses five glides to create "air in the hair," which easily allows for the hair to be worn curly or straight. Creating pockets of air allows the guest to get maximum volume and movement without having to use an abundance of products to create it. This is done by cutting the hair in its natural state, with no tension or over-manipulating, and using glide techniques to put these pockets of air in specific areas that have a tendency to lack volume and/or movement.
Keeping a “cut card” allows stylists to recreate the cut each time, and/or adjust it according to the needs of the guest. The beauty of this technique is it not only empowers the stylist to cut with confidence and celebrate texture, it also allows guests to manage and style their hair much easier.
- Dividing hair into 7 zones provides a strong re-creatable foundation. Using Sam Villa Dry Sectioning Clips makes it a cinch to section the hair to execute the cut effortlessly.
- Applying Mizani 25 Miracle Milk, a lightweight leave-in detangler, to naturally air-dried hair helps manage texture, makes cross checking easier and provides an undisrupted visual of the true texture of the hair while cutting.
- Various glide and linear cutting techniques are used to remove weight and transform texture. A curved shear or longer straight shear like the Sam Villa Signature Series Dry Cutting Shear 7” can be used.
Wash 'N’ Go
- The Mizani True Textures line of products are ideal for styling and supporting all curls, coils and waves, especially when paired with a deep bowl diffuser.
- Apply heat protection and desired products to support smoothing services.
- Use a blow-dryer with rotating nozzle (like Sam Villa Light Professional Ionic Blow Dryer) and a thermal styling brush to dry and smooth hair with high tension.
- Finish with a flat-iron (like Sam Villa Signature Series Sleekr Professional Straightening Iron) for added smoothness and to tame flyaways.