Color How-To: Smoked-Out Blonde

Dealing with preexisting box colors is notoriously tricky—and there’s no shortage of clients that try to save a few pennies with an at-home color job, only to get dry, orange, brassy outcomes. To demonstrate how to transform these disastrous at-home color jobs, hairdresser and salon owner Craig Purves (@craigsworldofhair) uses foliage followed by two toning techniques, removing unwanted warmth and nourishing his client’s hair. The result: a cool smokey-blonde color with root shade that you can customize for each client. 

Get The Look: 

Formulas: 

  1. Lift: 50 grams Redken Flash Lift Lightener + 50 grams 20 Volume Developer + 2 ml Olaplex No.1
  2. Olaplex Back-wash Treatment: 15ml Olaplex No.1 + 90 ml warm water onto damp towel dried hair. Leave for 15 minutes then blot and follow with Olaplex No.2
  3. Pre-tone: 1:1 ratio Redken Shades EQ Demi-Permanent Gloss 9V and Clear + developer 
  4. Tone: Root: Redken Shades EQ Demi-Permanent Gloss 6N + 8N + 9T 1:1:1 + Processing Solution + 2 ml Olaplex No. 1. Midlengths: Redken Shades EQ Demi-Permanent Gloss 9N + 9P + 9T 1:1:1 + Processing Solution + 2 ml Olaplex No.1 

Steps: 

  1. Begin by lightening the overall color using foliage. To foliage, starting at the back, take a small section and gently backcomb while holding the end taught. Place a foil underneath and paint on lightener, fully saturating the section. To blend the lighteners edge, apply lightener vertically and feather up to the backcombing.
  2. For the face-framing sections at the side of the head, make the sections thinner. For the fringe, create feather lights and place them underneath the fringe. When applying lightener on the top of the head, use diagonal sections to enhance the foilage’s sweeping effect.
  3. Wash lightener out of the back section and leave the sides and top to keep processing for 50 minutes. Continue by rinsing the rest of the lightener out and apply Olaplex back-wash treatment.
  4. Apply Pre-tone to towel dried hair for 10 minutes and then wash and shampoo. Towel dry and spritz with Redken One United Multi-Benefit Treatment  throughout and roughdry. 
  5. Finish by apply the toning formulas, starting with the root.

About: For over 50 years Redken’s foundation has been based on extensive scientific knowledge and the belief in, and support of, the expertise of salon professionals. Redken provides salon professionals with innovative products, inspiring education and exclusive salon programs to be as successful and profitable as possible. Located in New York, Redken is also at the forefront of trends and has created a strong relationship with the fashion industry. As a result, Redken has become a leader in backstage beauty, creating the runway looks for the industry’s most prestigious designers. A unique mix of fashion, innovation and inspiration, Redken provides salon professionals and consumers the ultimate professional edge. For more information, visit RedkenPro.comlike Redken on Facebook or follow us on TwitterInstagramPinterest, Snapchat and Periscope @Redken5thAve.

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