Framing Faces: The 411 on Brows and Lashes

Eyelash extensions | Photo by licsiren/iStock/Getty Images Plus

Q What eyelash extension looks are trending right now?
The classic and volume looks are on trend. Classic lashes create definition throughout and can be as dramatic or subtle using the right diameters. Volume lashes are fluffier and fuller, leaving little visible gap in between lashes. They’re soft and tend to last longer than classic lashes.

—Kate Baxter, Novalash Brand Ambassador and Lash Artist

Q What are the different curl types?
The most used curl types are J, B, C 
and on occasion D. J and B curls give the most natural look. J curls have little to no curve at the end, and are not suggested for those with downward-facing lashes. B curls have the slightest curve at the end—it’s the universal lash that looks great on everyone. C curls give the illusion of a “lash curler” look so they’re great for those who want a glam but natural look. D curls are for the full-on glam look. This curl is sky high. I wouldn’t suggest this curl for those who have deep set eyes.
—Elizabeth Diaz, Lead Lash Specialist at Pucker

Q What innovations are happening 
in the eyelash space?
LashLift, a.k.a. eyelash perming, is extremely popular right now. Some estheticians are using the treatment as an alternative or as an add-on service to eyelash extensions. It’s a great option for clients who might not want eyelash extensions, but want to achieve maximum curl and lift without using an eyelash curler.
—Esther Bolkin, Glad Lash Founder


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Q If a client notices one eye loses more lashes quicker than the other, what can a lash artist do to counteract this?
If a client loses lashes on one side more than the other, it could be due to sleeping on their side, tearing or the technician being right- or left-handed. For example, if you have a right-handed tech working on a client’s left eye, the extra time it takes to transfer the lash from the right side of the tech to the left side of the client can cause the adhesive to dry out. If so, work on your timing and tilt the client’s head closer towards the right.
—Christian Zamora, Borboleta Brand Ambassador and Founder of Christian Zamora Studio

Q Any tricks for getting lash longevity?
I found that dipping the extension at least two-thirds of the way into the glue and sliding it onto the natural lash helps for a seamless and long-lasting look. The sliding method also helps get rid of those pesky 
glue bubbles.
—Elizabeth Diaz, Lead Lash Specialist at Pucker

Q Any best practices lash artists 
should keep in mind?
Cleanse the client’s lashes right after the extension service. This may sound crazy to lash techs who were taught to keep the lashes dry for 24 hours post application, but this new best practice shows that as long as we wait five minutes after placing our last lash extension, the lash is already initially cured and we can use cleanser and water to wet the lashes to cure them completely. We actually need the water to cure the lash adhesive. This gets rid of any residue or vapors from the adhesive and reduces sensitivities or any irritation from forming.
—Courtney Buhler, Sugarlash Founder and CEO

The 411 on Brows

Full brows aren’t going anywhere anytime soon. “I’ve always been a firm believer in full, natural brows and I’m so happy that people are finally embracing a more natural look,” says Sania Vucetaj, brow expert and Sania’s Brow Bar Founder. “Full brows are universally more flattering.” And for clients seeking a more lasting solution than pencils, powders and gels can provide, there’s microblading and microshading—the two hottest techniques dominating the brow scene. “Eyebrow microblading is a method of tattooing that leaves tiny, natural-looking hair strokes applied manually with a microblading pen,” says Nadia Afanaseva, CEO and founder of Eye Design. “Microshading, also known as the Shadow Effect, is applied manually using special needles. This effect gives brows a gradient appearance with small pin-point dots instead of individual hair-strokes.” And for an even more natural, defined brow, clients are combining the two treatments. 

Eye Design clients before and after microblading (here and above)

Brow Wow 

Keep these products on hand to help clients achieve their eyebrow goals. 

  • Sania’s Brow Bar Angled Mechanical Brow Pencil features a uniquely angled applicator for perfectly shaping brows.

  • Pink Pewter Brow Shaping Powder contains tiny fibers and a flexible structured tip for precise application.

  • RevitaBrow Advanced delivers a proprietary blend of peptides to beautify and enhance brows.

  • GrandeBROW promotes thicker, fuller-looking brows within six to eight weeks with its peptide, amino acid and vitamin-rich serum. 

Long and fluffy lashes thanks to Glad Lash extensions

Lash and Brow 
Artists Stats and facts 

  •     50%    are 18-34 years old 
  •     98%    are women
  •     70%    are self employed

Charges for a set of lashes
     6%    Up to $60 
    42%    $61–$120    
    31%    $121–$180
    12%    Over $181

Earnings per year…
   48%    Up to $20,000
    27%    $20,000–$50,000
     11%   $50,000–$100,000
     3%     Over $100,000
    47%    Apply 11 or more sets per week

The top three specialist 
services are:
    96%     perform classic single strand application
    54%     perform volume
    59%     perform brow waxing

Photography: Courtesy of Borboleta; Mark Humphrey