How-To Video: Graduated Bob

(Photo courtesy of @danieljosephmuldoon)

Generally, when it comes to cutting a graduated bob, a popular method is to start on a vertical and pull the hair with over direction, getting the desired length within the front. However, we sometimes find that this can leave a lot of weight around the ear and side of the nape.

As a solution, in todays how-to video, TheFactory’s D.J. Muldoon (@danieljosephmuldoon) demonstrates an alternate method for achieving this classic look. The method, created by Vidal Sassoon, varies to the alternate by starting at the occipital instead of the nape, first establishing a bob and then building the graduation at the nape afterwards. 

Not only does this variation make a graduation bob cut easier, but it also improves efficiency, as it takes the guessing work out, allowing you to work faster. Scroll down to check it out.


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Get The Look:

  • Start cutting your bob by parting hair down the middle. Then, section the hair right at the highest point of the occipital ridge down to the middle of the ear and clip back the remaining hair at the crown. Divide the released section in half and clip back as one side will be cut first. Follow by taking a horizontal section from the top following the angle and clip back the hair at the nape of this section as it will be cut last. 
  • Establish the length of the bob by cutting away the length from the inside of the fingers, directing hair straight towards you. Continue by working the cut all the way through to the front.
  • Release a horizontal section of hair from the bottom of the second section (hair which had been clipped back at the crown) and start building your graduation at the crown (more of this section will be released later to create section three). When cutting, pull the second section of hair down to the first section to keep the length and help keep section two longer than section one (giving that graduation by pulling hair ninety degrees). Use the round of the head as a guide where to cut the length to. By cutting in this way you are able to give your cut a swollen appearance, compared to cutting on a vertical which makes the cut flatter and leaner. Continue by taking the cut all the way through to the front.
  • Release section three down into section two and cut. At this point you should be at the crown. To maintain the weight, bring the next section down and cut it to be longer than the previous. Cross check. Continue by releasing and cutting the rest of the section from the parting. 
  • Cross check the build up of weight and start on the other side. In the video, Muldoon cuts this side longer, however, the same process for the first side can be repeated if wanting a symmetrical cut. To start cutting the other side as shown in the video, make the second section higher, up to the cheekbone rather than the middle of the ear. Begin cutting your bob by matching the length to the round of the head as this will be your guide for cutting the other sections (remember to clip back the hair at the nape).
  • Continue by releasing sections from section one, and cut just like the first side (releasing hair from section one down into two) and work towards the parting.
  • To finish cutting the bob, cut the clipped sections at the nape of the neck by using the previously cut sections from the top as a guide (matching the hair at the nape, to that of sections one and two), pulling the hair straight out towards you on a ninety degree angle.
  • To cut your graduation, blow-dry hair in a flat wrap to keep it close to the head (it is also recommended that you smooth the cuticles by running over hair with a straighter). Then, use the points of your scissors to take away excess bulk from the bottom outline at the sides. To continue refinement, take horizontal sections around the back of the head (near section one, at the round) and continue cutting using the points of your scissors. Finish by cutting excess length from the middle of the length, straightening that line and then refining the front as needed.

About: Founder and co-owner of The Factory, D.J. Muldoon (@danieljosephmuldoon) has managed to create a significant presence and growing loyal following without the support of a manufacturer. With roots firmly planted in the global Sassoon culture, Muldoon is a second-generation haircutter with high engagement across social media platforms.