Every barber and stylist knows the ABCs of men’s haircutting—all those guides, angles and lines. But over the years most pros develop their own “hacks” that save them time and make the job easier. We talked to five top barbers to get their best haircutting hacks.
A square shape is the most flattering on a man. It’s critical you maintain those corners as the head begins to round. To determine where the head begins to round, place your comb vertical and flat against the side of your client’s head. Where the comb starts to leave their head is where it’s the most important to maintain length.
—Gardner Edmunds, Oribe Brand Ambassador and Educator (@hairbygardner)
Make sure you’re always cutting off of your mirror. It may sound obvious, but it’s easy to become complacent and forget. When I use my mirror and notice a few stray hairs, or an area that is too long, I just flip my cordless clippers around like a pencil and take those hairs right off.
—Whitney VerMeer, Andis Educator (@whitneyvermeer)
When you’re working with length at the top of a men’s haircut, cut in the texture with a razor or texturizing shears before cutting in the geometric shape. This allows you to work with less density, making it easy to create the desired end result.
—Megan Porter, Paul Mitchell Barber and Learning Leader (@megthebarber)
To remove bulk easily and quickly, tilt the client’s head away from you and maintain your clipper strokes parallel to the wall. You’re basically moving your clippers straight up and down. If done correctly, the hair naturally graduates as you go upwards.
—Juan “Jay” Ramos, Wahl Education & Artistic Team (W.E.A.T.) member (@official_j_ramos)
A time-saving way to remove bulk from the sides—and blend it in to the top—is to use a #2 guard and start from the bottom. Just as soon as you get to the parietal ridge, start curving the clipper towards yourself. The key is to move your whole arm up and out, and never break your wrists.
—Pat Regan, BaByliss4barbers Educator (@patty_cuts)
Photography: Courtesy of Oribe; Andis; Paul Mitchell/Big Tom Photography; BaBylissPRO; Wahl
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