The Top Blonding Formulas and Techniques for Summer

Help your clients have more fun with the latest blonde techniques and trends.

MUSHROOM BALAYAGE

This technique from Redken is ideal for brunette to blonde transformations, and uses the new Shades EQ Violet Blue shades.

Formulas:

Balayage
½ oz. (15 ml) Redken Flash Lift Bonder Inside Lightener Powder
1 oz. (30 ml) 20 vol. Redken Pro-Oxide Cream Developer
Glaze
1 oz. (30 ml) Redken Shades EQ Gloss 07VB Violet Star
1 oz. (30 ml) Redken Shades EQ Processing Solution

Steps:

1. Start the first tier on top at the hairline and create a large inverted triangle section approximately 2½-inches wide and 1½-inches deep. Create another triangle next to the previous section. Repeat on opposite side.
2. For the second tier, use a brick-lay method, creating a new triangle starting in the middle of the first and second triangle above. Continue to create triangles around the crown of the head. 
3. Starting the third tier, place triangles in a brick-lay method between the triangles from the second tier.
4. Start with the top right triangle nearest the face and hold section approximately 3 to 4 inches from the scalp. Pinch the section flat with an elevation above 90 degrees horizontal in relation to the room. 
5.  Apply the Balayage Formula to the surface of the section closest to the face using a gentle sweeping motion and begin making a soft diagonal back point of light.
6. On the edge closest to the face, extend the line of application slightly closer to the scalp. Continue to apply Balayage Formula using soft, gentle strokes further down the mid-shaft. As you move down the section, begin to lower the elevation, making sure to maintain tension. Once the elevation is below 90 degrees, recharge your brush with Balayage Formula and place the Redken Blonde Icon Balayage Paddle under the section. Apply Balayage Formula through the lengths of the hair. Be sure to saturate the ends thoroughly, making sure both the top and underside of the section are completely saturated. Place a small piece of cotton on the underside before releasing section.
7. Repeat on the opposite side using the same diagonal back point of light saturation and complete all top tier triangles.
8. Using the same elevation and application method as Tier 1, apply Balayage Formula to Tier 2 triangles using a V-shape point of light. Complete all Tier 2 triangles.
9. Starting in Tier 3, apply Balayage Formula following the same elevation and application methods as Tiers 1 and 2 using a V-shape point of light.
10. Process until orange. Do not use heat. Shampoo and condition with Redken Extreme Shampoo and Conditioner. 
11. Dry hair and apply Glaze Formula using a Global Application. Process for 20 minutes. Shampoo and condition with the Color Extend Magnetics Shampoo and Conditioner.

FACE FRAME
Mickey Colon (@mickeycolonjr), Truss brand ambassador, uses this placement technique to enhance clients’ features.

Formulas:

Lightener
Airlibre + 20-volume Developer
Toner on roots
8/81 + 10/0 + Pastel Developer
Midshaft through ends
/86 + /00 + 10-volume Developer

Steps:

1. Place two babylight foils back-to-back at the lower temple area to enhance the cheekbones, and repeat on the other side.
2. At the front hairline, place two babylight foils back-to-back.
3. With the third foil, slice and tease to start diffusing the entry of the money piece section.
4. Weave the last foil and leave a babylight interval in between, then tease that weave. This will enhance the eyes and create volume around the face.
5. Weave and tease the rest of the balayage for a natural look.
6. Treat hair with Truss Professional Fast Repair System.

   

CRYSTAL SILVER
This dark-to-light hue is perfect for natural brunettes, says Diana Vivi (@dvcolour), Revlon Professional ambassador.

Formula:

Lightener
Revlon Professional Blonderful 8 levels lightening powder + 20-volume Revlon Professional Crème Peroxide 
Toner
(Zone 1) Revlon Professional Young Color Excel 7.12; (Zone 2) Revlon Professional Young Color Excel .01 + 8.01 + 8.0; (Zone 3) Revlon Professional Blonderful Soft Toner 9.02 + 9.01 + 10.01

Steps:

1. Alter deep-teased sections with shallow-teased sections, incorporating high and low Vs with deep weavy teasy lights.
2. Use a back-to-back foilyage technique incubated in foil.
3. For a hairline pop, eliminate Zone 1 from front hairline using only the Zone 2 and Zone 3 formulas.
4. Shampoo with Revlon Professional Post Color Shampoo.
5. Condition with Nutri Color Crème 1022 Intense Platinum + Nutri Color Crème 1011 Intensive Silver.

BUTTERY BLONDE
“This soft, buttery hue possesses the sun-kissed warmth of a classic California blonde,” says Colin Caruso (@colincaruso), JPMS artistic director of professional hair color. “The dimensional color on long, undone locks brings out a perfect, natural-looking blonde.” 

Formulas:

Lightener
1 scoop Paul Mitchell Skylight + 1.5 oz.40-volume Paul Mitchell Cream Developer 
Refinement Formula
2 oz. Paul Mitchell The Demi 10BV (10/08) + 2 oz. Paul Mitchell Processing Liquid 
Processing Time
20 minutes on towel-dried hair