When it comes to hair color, Beth Minardi (@bethminardi) is a beauty industry icon. Working at New York City’s Samuel Shriqui Salon, Minardi transforms celebrities, socialites and long-time clients with an unfaltering passion—always striving to create a flattering color that each client adores. This client—who had subjected her naturally dark brown locks to continual bleaching—knew something wasn’t working. Minardi took her back to a natural brunette shade, giving the client the gloss, shine and richness she was craving.
The Client: A mother and daughter duo set up appointments together with Minardi at Samuel Shriqui Salon. The clients were from the Middle East and had naturally dark brown hair. “The daughter had been blonded over and over again,” says Minardi, “and both of them knew that the blonde color just wasn’t working any more. They realized that the best option for the daughter was a rich, shiny, natural looking brunette.”
The Goal: “We wanted to achieve a super glossy brunette color with no damage, no unwanted red or green tones and long-lasting luminous results,” says Minardi. “Even though there was a tint involved in the service, the color change represents a color correction, not a single process. You should charge 50 percent more than what your salon charges for a color retouch and glaze.”
The Color: Mindari handled this color correction with a technique she calls a “triple glaze.” “When performing a ‘tint back,’ I always ‘triple glaze’ the hair with a liquid demi color like Beth Minardi Liquid Demi Permanent Color. Using permanent dye—which many salons have been instructed to do—creates a muddy mess. And, since permanent dye is alkaline, the hair is further exposed to highly aggressive contents,” says Minardi. “And remember, to transform blonde hair to brown, you first must infuse red into the hair. Applying brown color to hair that’s already been chemically blonded creates a hideous baby-poop brown or goes black. The stepping stone between blonde and brown is red. Make sure you tell the client this before you begin.”
Glaze One: Mix and apply the following formula to the blonde hair. Beth Minardi Liquid Demi Shades: 1 ounce 8WG. plus one ounce 8C. plus 2 ounces of 5 volume developer. Apply evenly and generously, root through hair lengths. If hair is very long and/or very thick, you may need to mix a second batch. Cover with a plastic bag, and process, under heat, for 20 minutes. Rinse the hair thoroughly until the water runs clear. Towel dry and the hair will be a reddish golden-tan shade—which is exactly what you’re looking for.
Glaze Two: Mix: 1 ounce of 8WG mixed with 1ounce of 6TAN and 2 ounces of 5 volume developer. Back under the dryer for 20 minutes. Again, rinse and towel dry thoroughly.
Glaze Three: Mix 2 ounces of 6BB with 1/2 ounce of 5GB and 2 ounces of 5 volume developer. Back under the dryer, covered with a plastic cap for 20 minutes. Rinse, shampoo, and condition the hair. “Taa-daa! You’ll have a gorgeous, shiny, never-fail, brunette shade,” says Minardi.
The Style: Stylist Katt Smith slightly trimmed the hair, worked Beth Minardi Subdue through the hair, and blew it out smooth, using a large, round brush.
The Reaction: “Both the mother and daughter were extremely happy with the touchable, gorgeously glossy texture of the hair,” says Minardi. “I created this look four months ago, and she’s just returned for a refresh. The client really loves both the color and the shine.”
Have an amazing salon makeover that you’d like to be considered for our online Transformation Tuesday column? Please email our Executive Editor, Andrea Dawn Clark, at: [email protected] Tell us about each element of the makeover—the client, the goal, the cut, the color, the style and the reaction—and send a Wetransfer, Dropbox or Google Drive link with your high-res before and after photos. Use "Transformation Tuesday" as your email subject. We’d love to hear from you and share your makeover magic!