They say blondes have more fun, but is that really the case? From rich espresso tones to creamy caramel hues, brunettes are having a big moment this season.
Color Alert: Shades of Brunette
Chocolate Chip Cookie Color
Developed by stylist Ryan Pearl at NYC’s Cutler Salon, this technique, which sounds good enough to eat, is a new way of blending highlights and lowlights to create a look that has both blonde and brunette elements. Designed for those with a darker base color, this look is great for those who don’t want to highlight their hair all the time. Start by painting lighter, ribbon-like pieces around the face, staggering the height of each piece and continuing around the back of the head. Next, shadow the base and blend in the ends of another section of hair to make color pop. The only upkeep, says Pearl, is a few face-framing highlights or a glaze as the colors grow out.
At Di Rosa Haircare Salon in New York, Goldwell Guest Artist Rosa Hawkins offers brunette services from Goldwell’s Perfect Beauty Collection. The Shimmering Ebony Service allows her to enhance dark hair with subtle, natural-looking caramel dimensions. “Upgrading our clients has never been easier,” says Hawkins. “We can take our normal re-touch application and add interest without damage or increased processing time.”
Recommended for colored and natural brunettes, Davines Alchemic Chocolate Shampoo gently washes hair with direct pigments and offers a gentle toning action to enrich hair color. Direct coloring agents enhance and contrast a particular reflection, while milk proteins provide strong conditioning and protective action.
Instantly cover grey hair or re-growth between appointments with Oribe Airbrush Root Touch-Up Spray. Micro fine pigments blend effortlessly with a client’s natural shade to deliver airbrush coverage. The quick-drying formula absorbs dirt and oil, softens hair and is available in multiple colors including light brown and dark brown.
New antique and vintage rose gold shades from TIGI Copyright Colour are perfect for achieving rich, deep and complex shades of brunette. The new permanent shades offer four levels of lift and are intermixable, allowing colorists unlimited creative opportunities for personalized color services. Ask about TIGI’s new techniques for brunettes: Diffused Silhouette (inspired by the effect of contrasting colors seen in nature and art) and Contour Colors (creates detailing around the perimeter and accentuates the facial features). tigiprofessional.com
Created exclusively for dark natural bases, IGORA ROYAL High Power Browns by Schwarzkopf Professional lifts and tones in one step, lightening dark bases one through five up to four levels. The versatile color range offers eight brown variations, ranging from ash and gold to red and violet.
Put It In Neutral
This beautiful brunette is part of the Scruples Synergy 2015 Cutting By Design Collection, Unveiled Purity. The true and timeless collection bares the beauty of Scruples crème and gel base hair color, paired with Cutting By Design structure in foundation shapes. For maximum impact, pair the classic yet edgy hourglass shape with Scruples True Integrity Opalescent Crème Colour, Level 4 (Neutral Warm).
Paul Mitchell color XG is an easy-to-use permanent hair color that comes in 86 brilliant shades. Caramel Chocolate is their look of the moment, and it’s ideal for clients craving a rich dark blonde with a hint of warmth. Combine 1 oz. 6G + 1 oz. 7RB and 3 oz. 20-volume Cream Developer. Process for 35 minutes.
Matrix Artistic Director Nick Stenson has made Color Sync his go-to demi-permanent color for creating customized color service possibilities for his clients. Choose from 16 new shades, including Mocha Mocha and Warm Mocha. Meanwhile, ColorInsider High Coverage Reflects (no-ammonia, permanent hair color) maximizes high-definition color results with minimum stress to the cuticle. Choose from seven new shades, including brown-reds, mochas and warm mochas.
Celebrity colorist Philip Carreon, creative director for Eufora International and co-owner of Estilo Salon in Beverly Hills, CA, recommends a EuforaColor Gloss to bring out the beauty of faded tones. “With all the ombré, babylights and progressive faded colors we’re doing right now, it’s refreshing to have a salon service that can improve the look of someone’s natural faded tones,” says Carreon, who used the service to refresh his model Sadie’s color, which looked worn and drab.
Embracing the Dark Side
Have a client who’s been thinking about making a radical change in her appearance—maybe a blonde who longs to channel her inner Lana Del Rey? A wig gives her the option of taking the idea of becoming a brunette out for a spin with no long-term commitment. Curve Appeal from Raquel Welch by HairUWear not only lets her experiment with a new shade but also gives girls who may regret that pixie cut they asked for the chance to toss around long, lush locks again.
For her brunette clients, Spoke & Weal’s Color Director Christine Thompson uses the Aveda Full Spectrum DEEP line—an extra lifting and depositing hair color formulated for dark hair. “Often times, brunettes are worried about reflecting red or becoming too copper in tone,” says Thompson, who pre-schedules her clients for a glossing treatment to refresh their color from two to four weeks after having a color service. In-salon conditioning treatments, she says, can also add shine to brunette shades that seem lackluster.