Colorists across the country are seeing an uptick in the number of requests for white blonde hair. Aura Friedman, b3 Brazilian Bond Builder Brand Ambassador and colorist at Sally Hershberger and Tim Rogers Salon, gives clients the platinum treatment at least once or twice a week. “It’s such a bold look and creates a distinct persona,” she says. Here, Friedman gives her best advice for helping your brunette and raven-haired clients make the icy transition.
Q How do you safely take a dark-haired client to white blonde without damage?
A First and foremost, assess the hair to make sure they can take it. For these kinds of transformations, I always schedule a consultation to check texture, density, porosity and overall health. Evaluating a client’s natural level and hair history is also key. If everything checks out, use a virgin application method with a cream bleach. Once the hair reaches a banana yellow, start working on the roots. Remember to rinse in sections as it’s ready—when it reaches the palest yellow color, it’s time—and start from the back. Then, follow with a gloss like Redken Shades EQ or Wella Illumina with a pastel developer, depending on which tones need neutralizing.
Q Are there any pre-treatment steps involved?
A I usually ask my clients to prep at home with the b3 Brazilian Bond Builder Instant Restore & Protect Reconstructor treatment once a week leading up to the transformation. If we have more time to plan, I’ll have the client come in eight weeks before the color service for a b3 Demi Permanent Conditioner treatment followed by at-home prep.
Q What after-care products should colorists recommend for this particular shade?
A The products a client uses to maintain their color are super important. Protect your work by walking them through an entire color support regimen. I like b3 Brazilian Bond Builder Color Care Shampoo, Color Care Conditioner, and Instant Restore & Protect Reconstructor. These particular products are sulfate-free, and formulated with bond-building technology to reinforce hair health, preserving moisture with each wash.
Q What advice do you have for colorists who have clients that want to go white blonde, but feel their clients’ hair can’t handle it?
A You need to be straight up and tell them their hair can’t handle it. It’s pretty simple, because if you aren’t extremely cautious, your client’s hair will break off. And that’s far worse than refusing service.