Full sexy silhouettes with height at the crown, fringe and flicked ends were popularized by Jane Birkin and Jean Shrimpton back in the 60s. The trend has circled back recently with a rebellious edge, largely inspired by Jenna Ortega’s iconic style in Wednesday.
This sassy, shoulder-grazing, shag-inspired look called the Cub Cut boasts a texturized, line-free finish, making it perfect for anyone ready to go a little shorter.
“The Cub Cut has heavier fringe that tapers into sides that are heavily layered so you can get a ton of volume, height and movement,” says stylist Becka Bradshaw, Sam Villa Ambassador. “What makes this modern is the hair is styled forward versus back, like in the 60s versions.”
Watch how to do the Cub Cut here. The breakdown is below:
Fringe
When making a big change, the most important element to a client is what they see in front of their face. For this look, it’s the fringe. Cutting the fringe first helps the client establish trust and relaxes them.
Sometimes when cutting hair dry, the bevel is minimized. Use a Sam Villa Sleekr Professional Straightening Iron to establish another bevel, so fringe looks finished and the client can admire their bangs while the rest of their hair is being cut.
Full Layers
Create the full layers with elevation and over-direction of just four sections. To highlight cheekbones, create a guide that lines up. Slide Sam Villa Artist Series 6.25” Shear slightly down the hair strand, cutting on the way to achieve a soft guide. The shears have ample blade length to handle the larger sections.
Soft zigzag sections and overdirecting each of the four quadrants back over the head to the opposite quadrant helps create softness in the cut. These blended lines save time from having to go back and texturize/soften at a later time.
Sides
Diagonal back sections overdirected slightly forward, combined with channel cutting, creates the separation and playfulness in the cut. So, even without a lot of product in the hair, it can be molded into a shape and stays because of the air pockets created with the cutting technique. The Sleekr iron can be used to accentuate the flick on the bottom.
“These techniques can be used together to achieve this look or separately to create other styles,” says Bradshaw. “Creativity lives in your head and heart; use these tools and techniques for whatever you want to design!”