Haircutting is comprised of both technical and creative elements. The technical are easier to explain and learn, but it’s the artistic/creative elements that are much more difficult to govern, as art is by it’s very definition, a subjective process. There are, however, some things to take into consideration when bringing a creative vision to life, and according to Andrew Carruthers, Director of Education for Sam Villa, one of the most significant creative aspects of a cut is the fringe.
“The most influential element that affects face shape and highlighting and/or detracting from certain facial features is the fringe area. A killer fringe can transform an otherwise ho-hum haircut into a show stopping design,” explains Carruthers.
Long Layered Full Fringe creates a frame to bring attention to lips and cheeks.
1. Take a triangular shaped section from the high point of the head to the top of the recession area on the hairline.
2. Create a 1”center vertical section within the triangle from the high point to the forehead. Elevate this section to 90-degrees horizontal and create a vertical cutting line. The longest pieces of layer should fall just past the brow bone.
3. Over direct all of the left side of the triangle to the centerline maintain the same elevation and cut to the guide.
4. Repeat on the opposite side.
5. Refine the perimeter line to maintain the length and weight towards the outside corners
6. To build disrupted texture, finish with Redken Fashion Waves 07 and the Sam Villa Professional Ionic Blow Dryer with diffuser.
“I refined the perimeter with my new favorite tool, the Sam Villa Inviblend Shear. It leaves absolutely no lines and has extremely gentle removal of weight that allows you to create a soft disrupted edge to the perimeter line,” he adds.
Short Razored Side Swept Fringe is high enough from the eyes that it doesn’t close them down but not so cropped that it moves the focus towards the forehead. The sectioning for this shape is a tilted curved line that begins just above the recession area on the right side, curves slightly deeper away from the hairline over the right eye, and then becomes skinnier as it drifts off to the left side just above the recession.
1. Take the entire section and elevate it 90-degrees horizontal (parallel with the floor), over direction is forward towards an imaginary flat line (as if there is a wall in front of her) and finger angle/cutting line will mimic the section giving a tilted arch to the perimeter line.
2. With a Sam Villa Signature Series Razor, use a circular movement and be very deliberate with the texture when cutting.
3. Blow dry the fringe with hands to maintain natural movement and then refine the perimeter with point cutting.
4. A touch of Redken Move Ability 05 will define and defrizz the ends.
Tight Cropped Full Fringe - with thick hair that tends to crowd a face and hide beautiful features, a wide fringe is a good option. The initial sectioning is very important, blow dry hair into natural fall to see what hair wants to live in the fringe. Model above was just in front of the high point and extended all the way out to the recession area.
1. Start with a center vertical section, elevate 90-degrees to the head shape and deep point cut to follow the shape of the head. Length is key here! Be daring and go short enough to really allow the face to stand out and also leave just enough length that it’s still moldable in styling.
2. Continue towards the left side with vertical sections, over direct to the previously cut section, and at the same 90-degree elevation following the head shape.
3. Repeat on the opposite side.
4. Use the Sam Villa Invisiblend Shear and take horizontal sections starting at the hairline, come in at a diagonal angle to the grain of the hair with the solid blade of the shear and be fairly aggressive with the weight removal on the first section since it will have hair lying over top of it. With each section, be a bit more cautious to prevent too much short hair on the upper surface.
5. Once the weight balance is perfect, refine the perimeter line to compliment the face shape.
6. Use Redken Wax Blast 10 for separation and hold and to reduce the “fluff” factor.
About: Sam Villa is founding partner of the Sam Villa brand designed to bring “More Sam to More People.” The educational world of this Stylist Choice Award Winner for Favorite Platform Artist and Educator (2012, 2011 and 2007) and Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue can be experienced on www.samvilla.com.
Credits: Hair: Andrew Carruthers and David Boyd for Sam Villa; Photography: Andrew Carruthers; MUA: Amber Pearson.