Aveda’s newest body of work, Heart Lands, harkens back to a simpler time when handcrafting was a way of life. “The collection is punctuated by unfussy hairstyles with loose ends, cuts as smooth as corn silks, hues that mirror the setting sun, and makeup that’s as lush and varied as a bushel of heirloom tomatoes,” says Aveda Creative Director Antoinette Beenders. Here, Ian Michael Black, Aveda artistic director for hair color, details how to create one of the portfolio’s brilliant auburn looks.
1. After dividing the hair into radial sections (illustrated here), take medium-density, medium-effect weaves, placing the foils as shown. In the first weave, apply Formula A from scalp-to-ends, feathering the color toward the scalp. In the second weave, apply Formula B from the mid-lengths to the ends, feathering the color 1½ to 2 inches away from the scalp. Continue alternating Formulas A and B in each radial section as noted.
2. When the foils are complete, apply Formula C to the remaining hair.
3. Process, rinse, shampoo and perform a Moisture Botanical Therapy Hair Treatment.
4. To style, prep strands with Pure Abundance Style-Prep, then apply Volumizing Tonic before creating three traditional panel sections.
5. Beginning at the nape, perform a round-brush hard set, rolling subsections into on-base curls and securing with clips.
6. Continue the process until all the hair is set except for the fringe. Once cool, remove the clips and brush through the curls.
7. Using a fine-tooth comb, backcomb horizontal subsections at the crown to create a cushion. Work toward the fringe, but avoid backcombing it or the sides.
8. Mist the backcombed sections with Air Control Hair Spray before smoothing with a Mason Pearson brush and pinning sections at the crown for volume.
9. Finish with Air Control Hair Spray for staying power.
✂ —Kelley Donahue
Using Aveda Full Spectrum Permanent Haircolor:
Formula A
40 g 7 Natural Medium Blonde
12 g Light Orange/Red
40 ml 20-volume Color Catalyst
Formula B
40 g 8 Natural Light Blonde
5 g Light Yellow/Orange
5 g Light Orange/Red
40 ml 20-volume Color Catalyst
Formula C
40 g Universal ØN
8 g Light Orange/Red
40 ml 5-volume Color Catalyst