More and more, estheticians are seeing a spike in the number of clients coming in with sensitive skin issues. Some experience mild, occasional flare-ups while others deal with constant redness, breakouts, excessive dryness and discomfort. Sensitivity increases with age and on average, skin becomes 10 percent drier each decade after the age of 20. The less moisture skin retains, the weaker the cellular barrier and the more irritants get in and wreak havoc. “Clinically speaking, sensitive skin is a genetic condition where the protective outer layer becomes less efficient at blocking irritants and allergens, and becomes prone to reactions like redness and inflammation,” says Beth Bialko, Associate Director Global Curriculum at Dermalogica. “Sensitized skin, on the other hand, results from external factors like cosmetics, pollution, lifestyle and stress, and becomes chronically inflamed.” Here, our experts discuss best practices for treating clients with sensitivity concerns.
Q Are there any new modalities for treating clients with sensitive skin issues?
—Beth Bialko, Associate Director Global Curriculum at Dermalogica
Q How can sensitive skin clients achieve the benefits of more intense treatments, like chemical peels and microdermabrasion, without actually having to undergo them?
A The latest way to get a peeling effect without the potential irritation is to use an express peel in a clay-based mask form. This is the concept behind the Repêchage Biolight Luminex Mask. It uses deep-cleansing kaolin clay, moisturizing Laminaria Digitata and Ascophyllum Nodosum combined with glycolic acid and natural brightening ingredients such as licorice root extract, willow bark extract and pelvetia canaliculata extract. This is a great alternative to the standard glycolic peel as it can gently exfoliate, deep cleanse, and help skin appear brighter without the irritation factor. Another option is the Repêchage Rapidex Marine Exfoliator. This is a safe and effective uni-dose exfoliation program based on phyto-marine extracts and natural fruit acids. It has the optimum pH of 3.5 making it the most effective treatment even for the most sensitive skins.
—Lydia Sarfati, master esthetician and Repêchage CEO and Founder
Q What advice do you give to sensitive skin clients to practice at home?
—Lydia Sarfati, master esthetician and Repêchage CEO and Founder
Photography: Courtesy of Dermalogica