Step-by-Step: Rich Brunette Shades

Rich, shiny hair color courtesy of All-Nutrient gives this classic bob its kick. Erin Yoshioka, master colorist at Planet Salon
in Los Angeles, takes us through her process.

Step 1: Clarification

Pretreat the hair with All-Nutrient ClarpHx Treatment. Rinse well with cool water. Lightly shampoo with ClarpHx Shampoo.

Step 2: Reconstruction

Pretreat the hair with Protein Complex and Pure Oil to enhance the quality of the final result.

Step 3: Formulation

1-½ oz. Keratint Color-Glaze 2CS

1-½ oz. 10-volume Demi Developer Plus

Mixing ratios are equal amounts of hair color to developer. Yoshioka recommends adding 5 to 10 drops of Pure Oil to assist in the oxidation for full development of the hair color.

Step 4: Application

Section the hair into four quarters. To protect the skin from staining, apply Protein Complex to the hairline, ears and nape. Starting in the back, take ¼-inch sections and apply color using a bottle applicator from roots to ends. Use a comb for sectioning and to detangle the hair for a clean application. Make sure to massage the color into the hair for better saturation. Process the color for 20 to 25 minutes.

Step 5: Color Balancing and Emulsification

After processing time is complete, add small amounts of cool water at the shampoo bowl and work the hair color into a lather. Let stand for five minutes to allow the color molecules to fully oxidize, to eliminate residual peroxide and even out color tonality root to ends. Rinse the hair and finish with Colorsafe Conditioner to close the cuticle and to ensure color retention.

 

The multitonal play of Acid Gold and Coral Blush against Pale Grey flows seamlessly onto the mystic Cool Brown background in this look from Goldwell’s Color Zoom ’17 In-Flux Collection.

 

Formula

  • Root Shading: Cool Brown Nectaya
  • Dark Background: Cool Brown Nectaya
  • Iridescent Colors: Pale Grey Elumen, Coral Blush Elumen,
  • Acid Gold Elumen

From the April issue, click here for the digital edition.

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