Razor cutting allows stylists to create shapes that are more difficult to attain with a simple pair of shears, but learning the appropriate angles when razor cutting is a step that's often over looked. According to Andrew Carruthers, education director for Sam Villa, many stylists are uncomfortable using a razor because they don’t understand enough about how to adjust the angle when cutting to produce a nice clean edge.
Fear not, it's actually easier to master than it sounds, and stylists can learn the golden angle of razor cutting in just a couple of minutes. Here, Carruthers shares a few tips for how to find that sweet spot while cutting.
1. PERPENDICULAR ANGLE. Blade shreds the cuticle layer and creates a fuzzy frayed effect.
2. FLAT. Blade struggles to cut the hair, and when it does it creates a very thin fragile edge that resembles a split end.
3. 45 DEGREE ANGLE. Blade cuts easily and cleanly leaving a blunt end, minimizing stress to the cuticle and delivering a soft blended smooth effect surface.