Tactics for Tacking Thinning Hair Problems

“Use a change of direction to soften the appearance of thinning,” Markham suggests.

When it comes to touchy subjects, for barbers, thinning hair is the absolute touchiest. To better understand thinning hair strategies and solutions, we talked to Jim Markham, ColorProof Founder and CEO, who started his career as a celebrity barber. Markham recently launched the new ColorProof BioRepair-8 product line, aimed at encouraging new hair growth. “Barbers and stylists have to remember, the sooner your client addresses the problem, the better chance he has of seeing healthy hair growth,” says Markham. Here, he demystifies the dilemmas of thinning hair.  

Q. What’s the smartest way to bring up thinning hair to a male client?
A. First off, try to find a quiet place for discussion. If that’s not possible, be sure to keep your volume low and address your client’s challenges discreetly. A good conversation starter can be, “Have you noticed any changes with the texture and density of your hair?” Let your client know that you have products that could potentially help him, and that his problem is extremely common for both men and women. If he seems interested in the science behind the thinning, try explaining the different conditions that impact scalp and follicle health: rising levels of the hormone DHT (DiHydroTestosterone), aging stem cells, poor microcirculation and buildup of follicle-blocking sebum. But, without question, always avoid words like “balding”—which could be alarming.

ColorProof BioRepair-8 three-step system


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Q. Are there any in-salon techniques or product ingredients that can help?
A. When it comes to hair loss, technique paired with the proper formulas is essential to encourage new growth. Part of the new ColorProof BioRepair-8 three-step system involves manual exfoliation using our Scalp Exfoliating Brush. The brush lifts away dead skin cells and debris that can plug the follicle. It also increases blood circulation, promoting new hair growth. Alpha hydroxy acids and DHT blockers also play a role, gently removing excess sebum and increasing microcirculation. After receiving this treatment, the scalp is perfectly prepped to receive active ingredients—such as saw palmetto, green tea, caffeine, biotin, ginko biloba, peppermint and copper peptides—that help preserve youthful cell function and encourage hair growth.

Q. What styling and cut suggestions would you suggest for thinning hair?
A. If a man’s part falls in a thinning area, the defined part annunciates the thinning. Instead, use a change of direction, which allows the hair to go forward, softening the appearance of thinness. Try to keep the hair down, over the front hairline to de-emphasize receding. Medium and shorter lengths are the most flattering because they make the hair appear fuller and stronger. And, avoid longer lengths or trying to comb over the thinning area, which only draws attention to the problem. Lastly, if your client colors his hair, keep the color natural—very dark shades contrast too much with the scalp, accentuating scalp show-through.

A few other thinning hair treatments to suggest…


KEUNE Night Density Rescue Treatment uses powerful antioxidants to target and neutralize free radicals that start oxidative damage that leads to thinning hair.  

GRANDEHAIR Care Line Man Fortify Lotion strengthens the hair and boosts circulation with a powerful combination of red ginseng, rock crystals, caffeine and vitamin H.

AVEDA Rejuvenation Serum stimulates dormant hair follicles with vitamins, peptides and amino acids. Clients report thicker hair after six to eight weeks.  


BOSLEY Invati Men Scalp Revitalizer instantly thickens hair at the root and invigorates the scalp with a potent blend of plant actives.

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